wich way did he go? wich way did he go???

[bondo]

4WD/4WS....got your attention yet?

boredom,an itch to recklessly destroy something and the natural habbit to modify anything i come in contact with has led to the start of what i understand to be the first small scale 4WD/4WS monster.

no plans were drawn, no prototypes made.
just me, a ruler,a partial brain and a boatload of money.
i've wanted a proper monster since i started in with the Xmods a few years ago.
after building a decent Xmod monster and finding that almost no ammount of money/time will make the POS turn properly with the rediculously oversized tires, i started looking to other trucks.
the only problem,Xtrucks **** for monsters PERIOD and all of the other platforms cost too much to chop up on a whim........until i found the radline.
the radline is 4WD but not 4WS.......
i also found the radlines to be too twitchy and unresponsive to be a decent driver.(i've bought two now with the same results for both)

i bought a mini-z monster and it's pretty fun but the tires and stance are a but small for my taste and the lack of 4WD kinda sucks too.

but,i found a **** good platform to start my masterpiece.
a possible mutt of mini-z,micro-t and radline.
all of the options are still in the air but i've narrowed it down a good bit.

i had alot of options to sift through.

here was the first go through with the MZM mainstay,micro-t trans/board and hs-55's.



it's all nice and tight but there were alot of trickle down flaws from this setup.
i had already ordered a second radline and it showed up as i was snapping the previous pics....so

......TEAR IT APART!!!



i lopped off both of the radline understays and stuck em together to make a 4" wheelbase.(also added the new possible parts to the pic)


i'm kind of unsure about this part.
i know it will work and mount but i'm unsure how the gear reduction is going to effect the overall performance.



the radline driveshafts will be cut and serve two purposes.
one end will hold the spur gear in place in the "new" trans and the gear ends will run into the boxes like they are supposed to.
(uncut)



motor and "trans"





and here's the chassis as of this afternoon.



i've since gotten the wheels on and the rest of the front ends are put together.

anyone have a good diagram or explanative pic of a micro-t board????



BTW, this babies got a suprise coming to it......:::

[Donziikid]

Due to only one board, I'm assuming this will be always 4WS, not selective? Unless you've mastered a plan to add another electronical component between the rear steering servo to the board to make it selective?

Looks like a great start to yet again another awesome project, Bondo. Keep us posted!

Cheers.
Kyle.

[texan_idiot25]

Bondo doesn't just paint? WTF! Kidding..

Very cool man. Really diggin' the parts swapping madness, that is mini-frank.

[xmodzracer]

wow holey crap!!!! lets see this thing rolling!

[bondo]

Originally Posted by Donziikid

Due to only one board, I'm assuming this will be always 4WS, not selective? Unless you've mastered a plan to add another electronical component between the rear steering servo to the board to make it selective?

Looks like a great start to yet again another awesome project, Bondo. Keep us posted!

Cheers.
Kyle.

WORD, full time 4WS.
you bring a good point but hell if i would even know where to begin to make it selective.
good ol' XMS though, bring something new to the table and somebody will find a flaw.....


thanks,

Originally Posted by xmodzracer

wow holey crap!!!! lets see this thing rolling!

lol, i'm hoping for wired by the end of the month......it all depends on shipping....

update:

wheel stance compared to an MZM.


by itself.

full lock.
i still have to adjust the turnbuckles to remove the toe issues.

comparison with the big wheels.


full lock.

upside down(plenty of clearance to drive this way if it had a motor/board in it)

the way the servos are going to mount.



dead nuts on level......the bubble is off because i have stock springs in the front and gold springs in the back.



btw, the cheasy plate you see is only for temporary bracing.
the two lowerstays are CA glued together and i dont trust it for something like this.
after i get it mocked up i plan on making rigid struts to bind the two halves.

cheers,

[Donziikid]

Not a flaw, just an observation. Again, good luck.

Cheers,
Kyle.

[TheB1GDude]

Very cool dude....

Are you running both steering points of the same point on the board? I assume so because you only have one board?

Do you need to reverse one of the motors so that the steering functions correctly?

[rsx racer]

And hopefully those steering FETs won't fry on you, if that's possible under this load. Nice project.

[xmodkidd33]

Lookin' good. It'll have enough torque to move those behemoth wheels?

[bondo]

Originally Posted by xmodkidd33

Lookin' good. It'll have enough torque to move those behemoth wheels?

thanks,
it's deffinately got enough torque to turn em but the dogbones slip out and the gears on the driveshafts spin.

Originally Posted by TheB1GDude

Very cool dude....

Are you running both steering points of the same point on the board? I assume so because you only have one board?

Do you need to reverse one of the motors so that the steering functions correctly?

thanks man,

i'm not quite sure how i'm going to run em yet.
but no i would'nt have to reverse a motor since the front ends are reversed.
say there both turning clockwise,when their facing each other they will be turning different directions.
EDIT:
you're right. i was thinking backwards.
one of the servo motors will need to be swapped.





update:
i got the driveshafts cut,the spur gear stable and the motor mounted solid.




so..........why not take it for a spin.
i locked down the rear so it didn't walk all over the place since i still have no steering....


i wired it up to what's left of one of the radlines to test the 4WD.



OMG, bondo finally figured out those fancy moving pictures....:shock:



it's a bit slow for my taste but it's on the stock motor and by using the gearbox as a transfer case i'm doubling the reduction.
i guess that means i have to try to do away with the spur gear and run the transfer straight from the pinion.
oh yeah, i have to lock the diff in the transfer case.....forgot about that...:hmm:

cheers,

[TheB1GDude]

Figured that at least one of the servos would need to run reverse current

Very cool though man! Make sure you finish this one quick!!

[DRFTKO]

Originally Posted by bondo

thanks,
it's deffinately got enough torque to turn em but the dogbones slip out and the gears on the driveshafts spin.

Have you tried using a set of these: http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/A...ts__14223.aspx? They should fix that problem.

[bondo]

Originally Posted by TheB1GDude

Figured that at least one of the servos would need to run reverse current

Very cool though man! Make sure you finish this one quick!!

finished,....yes
working,.....?

Originally Posted by DRFTKO

Have you tried using a set of these: http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/A...ts__14223.aspx? They should fix that problem.

it's not the dogbones. it's the cups.
if the cups were aluminum the wouldn't slip out.
it isn't a problem with the stock wheels.

[xmodzracer]

also you may want to do the steering slop mod

Props to joeyblaze

I connected the U shave steering bracket( the one the the servo moves) at the bottom under the pivot arms. I cut up a section of lexian , and drilled to holes in for the screws which connect the pivot arms tot eh U shape servo arm. There was enough room so it all fit with no binding.

You can see the portion im talking about in the picture below, the green box is basically the shape of the brace i made, It all fits within the chassis also.



I will get real picture of the bracket ASAP, it was very easy

now both wheels move as one, you can not move one wheel with out the other one moving. Before one wheel would be able to stay straight and the other one would be able to turn almost fully



also driving in reverse at any speed was impossible before, both wheels would turn inward at dif rates and caused the car to not drive straight, now this only happens at high speeds in reverse.

[bondo]

Originally Posted by xmodzracer

also you may want to do the steering slop mod

Props to joeyblaze

sweet, thanks for finding that.
i hope it works as well as he says it does.

[xmodzracer]

i have done it and it works great. you dont even need that big a piece it just has to be reeeeeaaaaallllyyyyyy thin but it works amazingly.

[amorton94]

on the servo thing, if your running it off the same bored couldn't you just reverse the wires on one servo? like negative on the positve and the positive on the negative? i don't know if that would lead to premature servo fry though...

[BART]

Do the dogbones slip out because the cups flex open? If so I read on a 1/5 forum about glueing rings around the outside of the outer edge of the cup which allows you to get the bones in and out but stops them from spreading and releasing the bones under load.

[xmodzracer]

Originally Posted by amorton94

on the servo thing, if your running it off the same bored couldn't you just reverse the wires on one servo? like negative on the positve and the positive on the negative? i don't know if that would lead to premature servo fry though...

im more worrying about his steering fets burning out. granted radlines can take more than xmods but still... there is a limit...