Donziikid's MiniZ MA010

[Donziikid]

Howdy; I am also the pround owner of a Kyosho MiniZ MA010. I purchased this MiniZ AWD off of Flashsp2 on GSR (it was also listed on MZR). It came with quite a few goodies, one of those goodies being the ultimate in external turbos - the Woah Nelly EVO! I payed a very reasonable price for this MiniZ which included a whole schwack of stuff from knuckles of multiple cambers to a custom hand wound 39T armature from Flash himself!

I'll tell ya' this right now, no motor I have ever run (including the 39T from PX) can compare to this motor. It has the best powerband I have ever used for a 130 sized brushed motor.

Pictures:







Other RCs:
Traxxas Stampede.
Handwound Brushless-Motors.
Axial AX10.
Associated RC18MT.

Very nice. Great way to hop in there with a tricked out mini-z. I hear it is difficult to tune the awds to compete against the 2wd on track...so if anyone could have set it up for you it would be Mr. Flashsp2.

[Spoon_Tuner]

Thats awesome...

If I had more space, or just even a huge room. I would so do something like that with mine. But I have alot of junk in my garage barely enough room for the track I have. And I cant find a place good enough that won't tear the hell out of mine.

That is very cool.

No broken wheels or anything like that?

But I do say, at least get a display body or two. But if you chose one definetly get a Skyline or the Nismo Fairlady Z.

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by Spoon_Tuner

If I had more space, or just even a huge room. I would so do something like that with mine. But I have alot of junk in my garage barely enough room for the track I have. And I cant find a place good enough that won't tear the hell out of mine.

That is very cool.

No broken wheels or anything like that?

But I do say, at least get a display body or two. But if you chose one definetly get a Skyline or the Nismo Fairlady Z.

I feel the same way. I'm very cautious of where I drive and how I drive; between the external turbo and the 39T armature from Flash, it's a rocket in a straight line. I hope someday to bring it out to a local track night (Ann Arbor HFAY meets) but, I won't be able to compete because this isn't a stock MiniZ. It'd still be really nice to get some track time, though.

Nope. Haven't broken a thing thus far. Hopefully won't, either.

Actually, those are my two top choices for a body. They both look really, really good. But, I would probably end up getting a white body and painting it. I'm perfectly fine with this basher body, I know I can drive a little harder with it on and not worry about beating up a great looking body.

Have you picked up any drift tires yet? I hear those babies are a drift dream, with all that extra power you should be able to spell your name in cursive with the car.

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by Surgeon

Have you picked up any drift tires yet? I hear those babies are a drift dream, with all that extra power you should be able to spell your name in cursive with the car.

I plan to do that someday. Even with the GPM tires on it now, it finds its way to slide around on my wood floor.

[mini-z drift]

How much did you pay for it? Gosh I miss my MA010 now.

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by mini-z drift

How much did you pay for it? Gosh I miss my MA010 now.

Flash and I agreed on a measly $175 for the chassis, body, AE XP2 transmitter and a few spare parts.

Here's the parts list:

Originally Posted by Flashsp2

* Installed Nelly EVO turbo
* Kyosho 3 degree front knuckles/1.5 degree rear knuckles
* Ball bearings
* Brand new rear gear diff
* PN low down spring set
* Hand pattern-wound modifed motor. This motor has 35 turns or 28ga high temperature wire on a standard armature, with a large copper comm. It is build in an old style vented Atomic can with carbon brushes and ball bearings. The brushes have been seated, the motor completely broken-in, and comm drops and bearing lube has been applied.
* PN +2 offset dish wheels. This is the widest offset you can stuff under the 360GTC without getting any fender rub. The front is +3.5 offset from the chassis kit, the widest narrow offset available for the front of the car.
* 4 AAA GP950 batteries (Good punch and long run times), and Intellect 750 (known by many as the punchiest batteries around).
* Atomic Titanium screw set
* 360GTC detailed white body (Used for racing, this was not a shelf queen. Provides great stability due to the wide front/rear offset, and has a forward weight bias, which makes this a great body for the ma010 at the 94mm wheelbase.
* Kyosho 30 degree slick narrow tires , 20 degree rear radial tires.
* Soldered laydown crystal mod
* Extra NIP GPM Racing 8 degree rear tires
* Servo pot cleaned and lubed, which makes the steering much more fluid than stock. The stock potentiometer comes dry, and after a while becomes very erratic. By applying contact fluid (comm drops) the steering steps are less pronounced, and the car will turn much smoother. The servo gears have also had the flat surfaces wet sanded on 4000 grit in order to remove any burrs or irregularities. The entire servo system on this car is very, very smooth. The servo cover also has a corner removed to eliminate extra tension on the wiring system to the servo.
* 19/31 gearing currently installed on car
* All stock gears also included
* Kyosho SP hard chassis front/top deck, rear/top deck and gear box, and motor clip added. These are much more durable than the stock chassis pieces, and the suspension components are much smoother, with less binding.
* 4 extra alloy wheel nuts
* Motor wires soldered to motor and Nelly. The antenna has been upgraded with CAT 5 wire (soldered directly to the board), which is double the length of the stock antenna. The batteries have also been wired directly to the PCB, which eliminates the screws and tabs normally used to connect the two, without affecting the power switch in any way.
* XP2 Transmitter (more functions than the Kyosho Transmitter)
* Set of crystals for Transmitter and car

[mini-z drift]

Thats a great price

[muscle-freak]

That's a nice mini-z.

but i have1 question.
Why an Xmods Crystal?

And i have a mini-z very soon but don't know which model i want. and which chassis i should go for.

could you help me get the right chassis for a beginner in mini-z?

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by muscle-freak

That's a nice mini-z.

but i have1 question.
Why an Xmods Crystal?

And i have a mini-z very soon but don't know which model i want. and which chassis i should go for.

could you help me get the right chassis for a beginner in mini-z?

The Xmods crystal is the crystal that came with it. I don't know why Flash used that crystal instead of the stock crystal that comes with the MiniZ. Maybe one of his other cars was on that crystal frequency? Bah, I don't know. It works, that's all I care about.

For a beginner, you're going to want to go with something that is easier to handle and easy to maintain. I find the MiniZ MA010 (AWD) is the easiest to handle and maintain. I've run an MR02 at my local hobby shop and they're quite a bit more difficult to handle.

[Spoon_Tuner]

That is a really good price indeed...

I have a track, but its such a pain to bring it out and set it up but I dont mind the rewards when I get to drive on it. But I really dont have enough room in my house to set it up so I have to do it in my garage. Then the track gets dusty and crap and I hate cleaning RCP.
But its getting to the point where I wont drive on concrete at all, I used to all the time\, now not so much.

Have you tinkered with it all... I mean like tear it down and put it all back toghether. I mean it looks like from the pics you posted, really dirty. Im such a clean freak when it comes to these things...Seriously I tear down everytime clean it and lube it. EVERYTIME.

Flash looks like he does a really good job at sodering!

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by Spoon_Tuner

That is a really good price indeed...

I have a track, but its such a pain to bring it out and set it up but I dont mind the rewards when I get to drive on it. But I really dont have enough room in my house to set it up so I have to do it in my garage. Then the track gets dusty and crap and I hate cleaning RCP.
But its getting to the point where I wont drive on concrete at all, I used to all the time\, now not so much.

Have you tinkered with it all... I mean like tear it down and put it all back toghether. I mean it looks like from the pics you posted, really dirty. Im such a clean freak when it comes to these things...Seriously I tear down everytime clean it and lube it. EVERYTIME.

Flash looks like he does a really good job at sodering!

The price was half the reason I bought it. Flash really took a dive with this sale.

I sadly (and stupidly) let a two wide-L RCP track slip through my fingers when it was only going for $50.. The shipping alone for something that large would have had to cost $35-45.

I will never subject my MiniZ to concrete. They ride way too low and I love the looks of it's bottom; too precious to scratch up.

This thing needs a good cleaning, I'll give ya that. It's been probably a month since I've torn it apart, cleaned and lubed everything up. But, in that month, it's probably only been ran a handful of times.

[RedSXmodder]

Flash does make some wicked motors

Would this be the HFAY car?

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by RedSXmodder

Would this be the HFAY car?

If I ever get a chance to compete in HFAY it will be with a stock car, not a modified car. I'd get blown away a lot worse in modified. My HFAY car will probably be an MR02 RM (which I plan on getting in October along with an RCP track).

So, this is just my drool car and "basher" car. Won't be track designated nor will it be the quickest on the track - unless I really wanted to go that far and dial in two cars.

Flash is a great motor winder. This motor is a beast, way better than my motor from PX or a few I've wound myself.

By the way, Ann Arbor is winning in points for HFAY. Ha! We rule.

[mini-z drift]

Get a MM instead of RM. Better handling.

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by mini-z drift

Get a MM instead of RM. Better handling.

I have driven both a MR02 MM and a MR02 RM at my local hobby shop. For my driving style, I prefer to use the RM instead of the MM. Although the MM was easier to handle in the corners, I felt the RM was better suited for my driving style coming in and out of corners. I like to drive hard into the corner and slow down right when I have to and then accelerate as fast as I can, the RM allows me to do this because the weight is placed behind the axle instead of slightly infront of it like on an MM. Plus, if I wanted handleing, that's what the MA010 with AWD is for.

I could always just buy an RM from Kyosho and then buy the MM motor pod later if I wanted to change my style or wanted to try perfecting my MM driving.

[mini-z drift]

You have a point there.

A guy at my LHS got a MA010, converted it into a FWD, put a micro-t bushless, and liths into it. That baby is fast as hell. Handle ok though.

[muscle-freak]

so then i will buy an MR-010 AWD.

Thanks, does the body have any effect to racing or is it just like xmods for the looks.

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by muscle-freak

Thanks, does the body have any effect to racing or is it just like xmods for the looks.

The body will make a difference when it comes to racing, yes. Some bodies provide more downforce, some provide more body roll, some provide better visability; there are a lot of factors. I couldn't tell you which is the best body for racing, however. It all changes with people's different driving styles and habits.