2x3 stack of 8858's?

SkylineLvr · #1 02-25-2009, 06:27 PM

I've heard that doing a 2x3 stack of 8858's aren't a good idea and I should just do a 2x2 stack. Is this true? I heard that a 2x2 will handle just about any motor out there.

I just don't wanna do a 2x2 stack, then end up frying them when I could have just done a 2x3 in the first place. Any advice would be appreciated, since I don't know much about fets

TripleXmodder(akaXXX) · #2 02-25-2009, 06:38 PM

If you go to Atomicmods.com and click on motors, every description says what stack is prefered. They have just about every motor you'll come across and they are GREAT about including specs like that with everything.

http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories...ar/Motors.aspx

They also have comparison charts for motors and just about everything else.

xmodzracer · #3 02-25-2009, 07:51 PM

i have heard that the higher the stack, the more twitchy or jumpy the motor will become.

SkylineLvr · #4 02-25-2009, 07:58 PM

I've heard that too. Atomic Mods say that the Atomic Chili (the motor I might get) needs a minimum 2x2 stack, but prefers a 2x3. They are talking about stacking the 4562's. I've read that the 8858's are a little more better then the 4562's. I just don't wanna fry my fets and possibly damage my board

xmodzracer · #5 02-25-2009, 08:04 PM

hey better safe then sorry eh?

2wdpancar · #6 02-25-2009, 09:20 PM

2x2 is for the 2wd cars... some of the 4wd cars need one more fet layer due to more strain on the motor. (driveline in the ma010 increases amp draw)

SkylineLvr · #7 02-25-2009, 09:35 PM

I am leaning towards a 2x3 stack. I will wait until tomorrow when I get off of work to do it. I wanna get some more input from others. Either way, if it is too twitchy or I am having problems, I'll just take a layer off

TripleXmodder(akaXXX) · #8 02-25-2009, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blt456

2x2 is for the 2wd cars... some of the 4wd cars need one more fet layer due to more strain on the motor. (driveline in the ma010 increases amp draw)

Completely wrong. The stack height is determined by the motor. That simple. I am running a chilli a PN S04 in a mini-z with only a 2x2 and it is suggested a 2x3. I have had no problems. You should be fine unless you abuse it and ignore stopping running when the motor is hot.

SkylineLvr · #9 02-25-2009, 10:10 PM

I wanna run either an Atomic Chili or an Atomic T2. I'm pretty sure 2x2 would suffice enough, but I know they would run hot, so I wanna be as safe as I can. Not positive if I will run either of these. I do like the Chili though, at least what I have read about it.

TripleXmodder(akaXXX) · #10 02-25-2009, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkylineLvr

I wanna run either an Atomic Chili or an Atomic T2. I pretty sure 2x2 would suffice enough, but I know they would run hot, so I wanna be as safe as I can. Not positive if I will run either of these. I do like the Chili though, at least what I have read about it.

You will be fine with a 2x2 if your running AAA, I would go 2x3 if running Lith/Lipo. Good to Go.

2wdpancar · #11 02-25-2009, 11:46 PM

XXX: S04 and a chili in a 2wd or 4wd car? I don't know how I am wrong but put a chili or an s04 in a ma010 w/ 2x2 FDS8858CZ.
Modified motors can run faster w/ a 2x3 fet stack in a 4wd..... there is more strain on the motor in a 4wd driveline causing more amp draw. The lower the stack will not allow a motor to function at its full potential.
You would think that a guy who winds motor, stacks fets, and drvies long times with modified motors has some sort of a clue...............................

Skylinelvr: The chili has an advanced endbell so unless you don't want to mess around with it... get the T2. You should really see how fast a stock-r is on 2x2 of 3010 fets and the right gearing. You have to move your way up.... you'll see when you get a decent-fast motor. Don't jump to the mod motors yet... I did that and I went back to a base of running the stock-r.

TripleXmodder(akaXXX) · #12 02-26-2009, 11:51 AM

you'll be good either way but a 2x2 is completely safe. Have fun with it.

SkylineLvr · #13 02-26-2009, 08:09 PM

Well I lifted a pad when I took of the stock fets. I thought I fixed it, but when I soldered the new fets on, I didn't have any power going to the motor. Looks like I'm gonna have to sell my Xmod now just to buy a new board. Man this sucks. Should of had Action B do it for me for $10. Now I'm out $50-$100. I'm so ****ed at myself right now

Action B · #14 02-26-2009, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkylineLvr

Well I lifted a pad when I took of the stock fets. I thought I fixed it, but when I soldered the new fets on, I didn't have any power going to the motor. Looks like I'm gonna have to sell my Xmod now just to buy a new board. Man this sucks. Should of had Action B do it for me for $10. Now I'm out $50-$100. I'm so ****ed at myself right now

If you want I can take a look at it and try to fix it.
What technique did you use to take them off? I know the feeling sucks to have your Z down.

Don't get down on yourself man, its part of the learning process. I've not seen a board yet that was unusable after a failed FET install. It can probably be fixed.

SkylineLvr · #15 02-26-2009, 08:17 PM

I was heating it up w/ an iron and using a hobby knife to pry it off. It worked fine except for one of the pads. If you could that would be great

Action B · #16 02-26-2009, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkylineLvr

Well I lifted a pad when I took of the stock fets. I thought I fixed it, but when I soldered the new fets on, I didn't have any power going to the motor. Looks like I'm gonna have to sell my Xmod now just to buy a new board. Man this sucks. Should of had Action B do it for me for $10. Now I'm out $50-$100. I'm so ****ed at myself right now

I know the feeling sucks to do something like that though, I've done stuff to my real car like that before.

Usually these things are repairable. How did you go about fixing the lifted pad? While I've never lifted one I know how to fix them.

SkylineLvr · #17 02-26-2009, 08:28 PM

I scraped away some of the board to expose some of the connection and soldered a small piece of wire to it. I don't think it worked, or maybe I didn't solder the fets on right

Action B · #18 02-26-2009, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkylineLvr

I scraped away some of the board to expose some of the connection and soldered a small piece of wire to it. I don't think it worked, or maybe I didn't solder the fets on right

This is where a multimeter would be very helpful. You need to check for continuance to see where your issue is. Not only can you make sure there is no bridging, but you can test to see if the FETs leg is properly connected to the board.

If you have any questions let me know, if you don't feel comfortable messing with it further you can send it to me and I'll do my best with it.

SkylineLvr · #19 02-26-2009, 08:32 PM

Yeah, I don't have one that works. I should have just waited. I wanted to get so many upgrades for it, now I got to try to get it fixed or buy a new board

SkylineLvr · #20 02-26-2009, 08:35 PM

Can I send it to you? Do you have time to try and fix it?

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