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  #1  
Old 10-23-2009, 03:25 PM
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Default mr.hotrods new airbrush


NAME THAT AIRBRUSH!!! yea i have an airbrush now. It works as far as i can tell, perfect and i paid 10 dollars with an extra line plus it is like new inside
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Old 10-23-2009, 04:19 PM
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It`s a Paasche #F1, right??? . A single action airbrush gun. You in the U.S.A. have the Paasche and in Germany we have the H&D Evolution .

Best regards,
Klaus

Last edited by shabba24; 10-23-2009 at 04:22 PM..
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Old 10-23-2009, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shabba24 View Post
It`s a Paasche #F1, right??? . A single action airbrush gun. You in the U.S.A. have the Paasche and in Germany we have the H&D Evolution .

Best regards,
Klaus
actually it is the paasche #h airbrush
here is a link
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Old 10-23-2009, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.hotrod View Post
actually it is the paasche #h airbrush
here is a link
Sorry, so many Sets of these airbrush kits (and uncle google tell me the wrong)
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  #5  
Old 10-23-2009, 04:47 PM
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lol man your work is amazing though do you have any tips because i am starting out?
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53 chevy crawler 100%
fast and the furious tokyo drift mustang 100%
rsx rally car 80%
nine in the quarter100%
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Old 10-23-2009, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.hotrod View Post
lol man your work is amazing though do you have any tips because i am starting out?
Thank you .

I'm going to assume you have a compressor , I would grab me a carton to learn the handling. I prefer the acrylic colors like autoair.

To paint you Xmods body you need different things:
sandpaper, putty, primer, basecoat, clear coat...
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:05 PM
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thanks but i was looking for airbrush specific advice all my jobs have been rattle can or high school paint gun
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53 chevy crawler 100%
fast and the furious tokyo drift mustang 100%
rsx rally car 80%
nine in the quarter100%
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shabba24 View Post
You in the U.S.A. have the Paasche and in Germany we have the H&D Evolution .

Best regards,
Klaus
don't forget,we also have the badger and aztek(testors).........
did you mean harder and steenbeck?
if so then the infinity 2-1 is the top dog.
i got to shoot the infinity(demo) at the last paint expo i went to and OMG,talk about the perfect airbrush...
my next high dollar AB is going to be an infinity for sure.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.hotrod View Post
thanks but i was looking for airbrush specific advice all my jobs have been rattle can or high school paint gun
there really isn't much advice to be given for single action AB's since you'll only be doing primer/base/clear coats and light shading.
there's nothing wrong with single action but you won't be getting into fineline or fine shading with it.
you can still pull off some amazing paint with it but the tecnique lies more in masking and stenciling rather then paint flow and hand control.
either way though,you'll be able to lay down paint with better coverage at a thinner mil. wich is always a plus when working at scale.

the best advice anyone can give you is to buy worthwhile paints,follow the directions on the paints and practice.

for paints, i'd recommend auto air colors like Klaus stated.
their waterbased,they lay down smooth as a button and cleanup is a breeze.

keep in mind that light bases are a painters bain.
white is obviously the worst.
white has the highest ammount of pigment making it thicker then black wether it's water or petrol based.
if the bottle calls for 3:1 like the AAC then that's your base to reduce for dark bases,the lighter you get,the more reducer you want to add.
i mix my white AAC at 5:1 to keep the buildup/spatter to a minimum.
mix ratios are easy to understand.
3:1 is 3 parts paint to 1 part reducer so if you had 3 Oz. of paint you would mix it with 1 Oz. of reducer.
do not store reduced paint.only reduce what your going to use.

if the bottle says "ready to spray"........test the hell out of it.
work it on a test panel until you have the right consistancy and keep track of your mixes on paper.
watch how it dries,you'll notice a deffinate difference between 1 coat of 3:1 white over 1 coat at 5:1 on a test panel.
i've used quite a few brands of paint that claimed "RTS" but none have been to my liking for this scale.
it's better to over reduce your paint and shoot 12 coats of tinted reducer then to shoot one thick coat of "RTS" paint.
the trick there is to find that "happy medium".

**** near anything else you need to know can be found in one of my many tut's for airbrushing.
now lets see some paint!!

cheers,
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Last edited by bondo; 10-23-2009 at 11:37 PM..
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2009, 12:38 AM
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this is off-topic but its close to bodywork so im asking how is the testors putty
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  #10  
Old 10-24-2009, 11:53 AM
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right thanks bondo *looks for 68 corvette model to experement on*
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53 chevy crawler 100%
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rsx rally car 80%
nine in the quarter100%
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Old 10-25-2009, 03:21 PM
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Quick Q - can you use the cans of propellant with these instead of a compressor - has anyone done that?
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  #12  
Old 10-25-2009, 03:44 PM
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you could according to my mother, she used to airbrush fingernails on women but there isnt enough pressure or air for that matter to get the job done right
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53 chevy crawler 100%
fast and the furious tokyo drift mustang 100%
rsx rally car 80%
nine in the quarter100%
HMU on live folks MrHotRod1971
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  #13  
Old 10-25-2009, 03:53 PM
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Have to think of a plan B then... ill scout around at work tomorrow see if any of our suppliers sell one i can afford. Thanks Mr hotrod.
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  #14  
Old 10-25-2009, 06:37 PM
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i belive habby lobby has compressors for like 80$ if that is in your budget.
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53 chevy crawler 100%
fast and the furious tokyo drift mustang 100%
rsx rally car 80%
nine in the quarter100%
HMU on live folks MrHotRod1971
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  #15  
Old 10-25-2009, 06:58 PM
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im in the uk and postage of these is massive, and because im not on the mainland right now even uk ebay stuff is massive postage....
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Old 10-25-2009, 07:04 PM
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oh i thought you were in the us
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53 chevy crawler 100%
fast and the furious tokyo drift mustang 100%
rsx rally car 80%
nine in the quarter100%
HMU on live folks MrHotRod1971
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Old 10-25-2009, 07:14 PM
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If i was i would of saved a whole load of postage costs over the last week lol.
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  #18  
Old 10-26-2009, 09:13 AM
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I was going to suggest the bay,i got my tank compressor for £15 and collected it instead of postage. But with you not being on the mainland,that could be a problem too. good luck finding one.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:50 AM
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there's got to be a cheap tool retailer around you somewhere.
we have harbor freight,northern tools,TSC,etc....
airbrush compressors are overpriced for what they are IMO.
they basically took the tank off a tank compressor and sold you the motor and pump for the same price.
if you pay $80 for an airbrush compressor then you bought it for your airbrush but if you pay $80 for a tank then you can use it for anything that requires air.
if you're short on space and can't have a noisy compressor running then opt for the AB compressor.
if not,deffinately go with a tank type.
a small 2 gallon pancake compressor would be perfect.

my advice would be to walk into a few stores that sell tools and price check.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:57 PM
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The project im starting really cant be done with rattle cans, i found one locally today for £100 (GBP) with the airbrush kit as well but ill have to wait for a while before i opt for that. Luckily i have loads of time before i need it. Very worst case i will get an airbrush kit and see if the propeller cans are good enough, with the small compressors, do they have to recharge every few minutes during use? And when they do recharge dont you loose pressure at the nozzle?
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