#21
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Have you considered the Radline Racing Buggy at target? It's 4wd, and upgrades are easy to get, and did I mention cheap? Four oil shocks for $15!
Here's a link to one of the threads: http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforu...ead.php?t=1775
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After a thousand years of oppression,
Let the berserks rise again, Let the world hear these words once more: "Save us, oh lord, from the wrath of the Norsemen" |
#22
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Electric, you use batteries. Nitro, you use fuel AND batteries! So its double duty on your wallet. Nitro can be a headache if you don't know what you're doing, but electric is much less expensive in the long-run. If starting out in electric and then going with nitro later on, you'll have a much smoother (and less costly) transition because you've already acquired high-end or mid-range chargers for the battery use of nitro, as well as misc FM-level electronics by that time. Having the FM electronics to dump into the nitro ahead of time really takes off a lot of AM's interference risks.
Nitro usually consists of an hour or two of more maintenance work than an electric. |
#23
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Quote:
Nitro is a diffrent thing, the smell and sound is something else, and it's cheaper to go faster. In the long run, you're tied in price though.. Batteries wear out, and you get a drop in performance. Good batteries (for the same speed) are about $30, and you get limited performance.. You get a good 2-3 hours run time on a gallon of nitro, for $20, that's not bad... Read RC Car Action and the other RC Magazine for a while before you go nitro, answers alot of questions!
__________________
After a thousand years of oppression,
Let the berserks rise again, Let the world hear these words once more: "Save us, oh lord, from the wrath of the Norsemen" |
#24
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alright.. just got back from the place where i was going to buy. i was told the duratrax raze is crap, 1 in 2 that are sold are returned for poor servos etc.. and that the Associated RC18B is the best bang for the buck in electric rc's.
so now i have to wait a few days for them to get some in, ive already got one on hold for when theyre in. thx doods couple RC18B's i found, lookin pretty good! will post some pics when i get mine.. |
#25
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That usually comes from hotshots who can't appreciate a good car because they believe that Duratrax is a lousy company.
Duratrax sells many quality goods. It doesn't matter if it comes with bad servos. People who buy RTRs and return them for bad electronics are usually snobs. Nobody who's settled into this hobby buys an RTR and uses its electronics for more than a few weeks anyway. RTR electronics on 1:10 and 1:8 are usually weak, low-quality, and slow anyway... |
#26
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lol, ya i kind of gathered that. i dont think he was reffering to duratrax being crap, but more so the raze is a low budget buggy with crappy electronics, and for me being a noob to stay clear of. pretty much what youve said.
either way tho, ive got my order in and am going to have settle with that for awhile. the only thing that im thinking about now is the scale, 1/18 compared to a 1/10 or 1/8 is a pretty big difference. i just hope i can take it to the track and not have to push it up a hill or loose site of it because its so small lol! got any pics of your buggy? |
#27
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Me? lol, I don't an RC18B The only 1:18 I own is a Tamiya TLT-1 Rock Buster. Everything else I've got is a 1:10.
Are you referring to the 2WD 1:10 buggy I own? |
#28
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Those pics of those Team Associated buggies are nice. That blue one looks awsome and the black one has a lot of metal upgrad parts. Cool. I really want a buggy, I wonder what I'll get when I get one. Let me know how you like your RC18B. Maybe I'll get one of those. How much is it going to cost you?
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#29
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Quote:
even better if you had a side by side of your 1/18 with your 1/10 to give me a visual on the size diff............. |
#30
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Just a suggestion:
If you're going to try to jump the buggy and bash a lot with it... Drive it in a pool (darkendblades lol), I would HIGHLY suggest not getting aluminum suspension arms. Stick with plastic or carbon graphite (I would recommend plastic though, since you're not racing hardcore). Would you rather have the suspension arms break, or the whole front end of your chassis? Aluminum bends and can't be bent back the way it once was. Plastic bends, so it absorbs some impact. Once the aluminum bends, you can't bend it back to its original shape. You can get pretty close, but then your chassis is still tweaked, and that isn't a good thing. In hobby-grade R/C, heavy-metal cars don't make you cool, its usually frowned upon by people who know what they're talking about and know how to use their money wisely. EDIT: pics The red marking beside the ruler shows 9.2 inches or 23.36 centimeters, the length of the RC18B. Not pictured is my classic re-release of the 1:10 2WD Hornet. Note: the ESC and motor are not installed in my B4 (the one without the body/in the middle) Last edited by REDisFASTER; 08-14-2007 at 03:06 PM.. |
#32
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I'm lost, what scale are each of the cars in the picture? And the RC18B isn't there but the red line resembles how long it is if it were there?
Another important question, if I get a buggy, I thought I'd drive it at these construction sites behind my home, (not while they're working of course) and there's a lot of really loose dirt, is that dirt going to get in my gears and wreck my car? I read on one buggy, I can't remember which, that it had lexan gear covers, do most buggies have covers over the gears? Do propulse?
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RallyWRX |
#33
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Yes, dirt will hurt the gears. That is why these buggies have uber plush suspension and pin tires, becuase they race on RCP.
They will have some sort of cover, and if it's not perfect, oh well. Dirt isn't that bad, sand can kill gears though.. We run my brothers stampede with the gear cover off, it's fine.
__________________
After a thousand years of oppression,
Let the berserks rise again, Let the world hear these words once more: "Save us, oh lord, from the wrath of the Norsemen" |
#34
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Sorry for being ingorant, but what is RCP? And I've noticed that the buggies have pretty low ground clearance for stability and handeling, do trucks have more clearance or just a shorter wheel base and a truck body?
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RallyWRX |
#35
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Quote:
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#37
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RCP is a type of indoor track that is used to race r/c vehicles on. It is a rubber/foam based compound that has good grip and as Sweed mentioned does not contain dirt.
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Posts Are Over Rated. One Should Be Judged On What They Say, Not How Often They Say It. Rules- http://www.xmodsource.com/forum/show...0724#post70724 ^^^read it er beat it^^^ "free the heel and ski for real" Fujica STX SLR still for sale. Looking to build computers by order. -Contact me on both. |
#39
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#40
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The 'monster truck' is Tamiya's 1:18 scale TLT-1 Rockbuster.
The 2WD buggy, the AE RC10B4, is a 1:10. And the bottom one, the 2WD nitro stadium truck, the RC10GT2 is 1:10. Yes, the red line is the length of the 18B. If you're driving around in a construction site, then I wouldn't recommend the 18B, as it could (and will) be unsettled by the dirt. The good thing about hobby-grade R/C is that the transmission is completely sealed in a way that dirt won't come in and damage your transmission gears. If you've got a 1:10 electric 2WD buggy or stadium truck, the pinion and spur gears are also sealed, not much for nitro stadium trucks though lol. Most have exposed pinion and spur gears for easy gear changes and mesh adjustments. This is usually because those R/Cs are high-end racing vehicles meant for a closed-circuit and prepared track. Last edited by REDisFASTER; 08-16-2007 at 05:08 PM.. |
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