#1
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Sadistik SuperBird start-finish (56K Warning)
i originally started this car last august and it was one of the first models that i wanted to put on an Xmod.
with the little knowledge of the cars however and few parts, it was almost impossible since it's such a long body. it sat in a box for about 6 months until i moved some stuff around and saw it sitting there begging to be finished. i didnt do a whole lot after that. pulled it out,stripped the original paint and putty and put it back in the box. i pulled it back out again on the first of the month(AUG) and set back to work on it and now i'm determined to finish it. the chassis is mostly stock for now until i can get some other stuff sold. the RWD chassis has: custom plexi lower/upper decks Bearings GPM rear springs custom wheels soon to come: GPM godbones,knuckles,tie-rod,front clip,front springs,diff, 4s AAA Li-Ions (14.4v) V2.2 regulated board DratchBuilt "SuperDrag" motor ceramic bearings here's the progress pics from 8/1/07 until now (8/30/07) i'm just going to throw up what i have for now and i'll go back and explain the pics a bit more in the morning. not all of the pics are in the final design. some were concepts of how i intended to do something or another. i still have some more cutting to do on the engine bay...she's sittin kinda high more updates coming soon. 5/31/08 IT's DONE!.....well as done as it's going to be for now. i may go back and add some more power but for now, she's built. the final outcome is a bit different then the pics above but alot of stuff didnt work out or i found a better way. i think it turned out OK..... the car is a '69 plymouth Daytona "superbird". custom SGK cut/painted(flat black) lith-ion chassis XI/SGK li-ion Atomic StockR motor Revelle RPMz slicks full rollcage interior w/homade nitrous bottle,window net and seat full wired/hosed engine w/ homade braided nitrous hose and rail..........(@tex, their even wired in firing order) detail master fuel cover detail master functional hood pin kit(hinged rear for suicide hood) homade ballast box for wheelies custom painted RS heatsink GPM: mustang front clip front/rear arms front/rear shock mounts front/rear shocks front/rear knuckles front/rear cups rear dogbones the thing that goes over the rear clip ball differential/locked The paint is HOK black diamond laid over HOK flat black with HOK red kandy. 44 individual decals were laid gunmetal/flat black detailed rims(even painted the lugs) you ready for the pics???........ ........ ........ ........ ........ you sure your ready???? lol cheers and thanks for the feedback and support Bondo
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Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.... Last edited by bondo; 05-31-2008 at 07:06 PM.. |
#2
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not too shabby my friend. if you dont mind me asking, how did you make that sweet diamond plate look on those parts? that would be cool too see a custom diamond plate toolbox in the bed of an xmods truck
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Team XI |
#3
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nice car man its looking good it better be fast,and i just found a 69 daytona charger body im gonna build any tips on rear and front clips?
this is going on a car chassis as well.
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Smoke tires, Not drugs. |
#5
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**** she turned out great im in love w/these cars where did you get the model?
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IF YOU NEED A MODEL BODY MOUNTED I CAN DO IT! Quote:
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#6
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it looks good so far, but you need new tires in the back.
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Brushless RC18T, Brushless Micro DT, Midwest AeroStar .20, SCX10 Honcho, Duratrax 1/5 Firehammer MT, Traxxas Nitro 4Tec 3.3 |
#8
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lol put dead cruddy batteries to weigh her down, lol. you put like the nice duracell 2600mah rechargeables back there...
nice job though... Noturday for the diamond plate just go get styrene theres on that comes like that, then just paint it. |
#9
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thanks guys, it's getting there but i still have a ways to go.
sorry for the misleading title but it's far from finished. Quote:
do you mean a tool box like this?? Quote:
the rear is a square of styrene laid across the truckn and then i cut and stacked about 8 pieces of .40 styrene to build up the clip. i'll try to get a pic of both for ya as soon as i get the front done. your going to have to figure out how to lengthen your chassis farther then two spacers will get you. Quote:
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http://xmodsinternational.com/USA_ST...VERDIYRIMS.htm Quote:
i'm pretty sure that it's still being produced though so check your hobby shops. Quote:
those are pretty old and were stretched over truck rims that werent shaved so they cracked out. they work great for mock up though now that the body is where it's supposed to be, i put the wheels back in the box until final build. new tires are on the way. Quote:
this car is going to have 4s AAA li-ions. 2 in front and 2 in back. this evens out the weight and keeps the wheels on the ground(front and back) i wanted 2 in the front to keep the front wheels on the ground and 2 in the back to increase traction. they will be housed in the body instead of the chassis and connect through micro plug to the board. thanks again guys and keep those comment/questions coming. cheers, Bondo
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Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.... Last edited by bondo; 08-30-2007 at 01:41 PM.. |
#10
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Very interesting bondo i like the battery weight idea might use it some time.
Jon
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Team ACCENTS Member Proud member of Crawling Truck Club(CTC) The fist and only! |
#15
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Sadistik Grafix maybe? Looks great B man, keep it up... |
#16
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when i first started building this car a year ago i never would have thought that weight would have this much effect at this scale. i'm finding that crowlers to drifters all gain in performance with the weight in the right spots. this for instance is a drag car and there's no better spot for battery weight then right on top of the rear axle. that wasnt an option for me but i came as close as possible. the front came about when i realized that this car is only going to be running 50 feet at a time so why not up the power and put the other two batts in front to keep the nose down. a crowler on the otherhand would need the weight above both axles to keep the tires glued to the surface. i see alot of people building crowlers with 4 batts stuck to the roof of the body or big ol' gearboxes on the back with no compensation to the front. this will most likely result in a top heavy or rear heavy truck wich is more prone to flips wether it be sideways or and over end. say your climbing a 6 degree grade and you have more weight in the back. the tendancy to flip backwards would be greater then if you were to put equal weight in the front. Quote:
your chassis may end up a bit different because mine is 1:24 but the concept will stay the same. Quote:
the plan with the batts in the front is to keep the nose to the grindstone. power is best transferred and controlled if all four tires are in contact with surface. real drag cars are in a constant battle with weight to power. you see alot of very high HP drag cars lifting the fronts off the line but that is not the original intention. they simply dont have much of a choice. once you get into the 900HP range there is little you can do to keep the fronts on the ground aside from ladders and/or a fourlink and even that doesnt completely stop it. i do have plans for a wheelie mosheen in the near future though so keep an eye peeled for that one.. Quote:
instead i threw it in a box until my knowledge and skill improved enough to get it going. sometimes leaving something alone is the best bet. just walk away and chew it over. you should come up with a solution sooner or later. i found mine with the purchase of a couple aftermarket chassis. i took a little from each design and made a one off version long enough to fit the body. Quote:
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i'm also looking at XI for sponsorship. if anyone wants to throw some cash at this one and be a private sponsor, your more then welcome you could get your own small bilboard on a sadistik project........ thanks guy for checking it out, the gratious comments and keep checking in for new updates. cheers, Bondo
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Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.... Last edited by bondo; 08-31-2007 at 08:15 PM.. |
#17
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so you put it away so you could get better at xmodding? oh well, at least it worked
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Brushless RC18T, Brushless Micro DT, Midwest AeroStar .20, SCX10 Honcho, Duratrax 1/5 Firehammer MT, Traxxas Nitro 4Tec 3.3 |
#18
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DB motor with a TRM sponsorship, that'll be a tough one to explain...
Interested? Later, RedSXmodder |
#19
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I like the plate thiny idea where it opens for the batts dude nice!
And im liking that thing on the f 150 i never thought of that nice job dude
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Keepin' it slideways.
Last edited by DrIfToRDIe; 09-01-2007 at 02:47 AM.. Reason: Um i had to put a "T" in it duh. |
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