New project truck!

[suicide_star]

The lower valence is in the bed of the truck. I'm going to keep the grille, but it, the mirrors, lower valence, headlight bezels, etc are all going to get painted body color. The rust isn't too terrible on the rear of the frame. When I get around to painting, I'm going to pull the bed, sandblast it, and spray it down with undercoating. I'm also going to run the exhaust when I get the bed off. Today, I need to prime the cowl hood because it's bare metal at the moment, and I'm going to drop the front end.

[suicide_star]

Today's progress included: Dropping the front end 2"(the back is 3"), installing the new carpet, put in the passenger side window, and installing the seats...Here's some pics...peace

[suicide_star]

Update:
After lots of wire tracing, I finally got the truck to crank and run off of ether. The fuel pump works, but there are leaks throughout the line, so I'm going to replace it all. We connected the hood pop cable, the throttle cable to the gas pedal, and I found a paint system from Eastwood that I'm going to use to spray it. It's a single stage metallic grey urethane and epoxy surfacer primer. The paint job SHOULD cost around $200. I've already got all the bondo and spot putty here for body work. Hopefully I can stay within my $2k budget for this truck. We'll see.

[Bananabrain]

Nice looking truck. Too bad the wiring is crazy.

[Blade.]

Originally Posted by Bananabrain

Nice looking truck. Too bad the wiring is crazy.

No, the wiring is not crazy... It's not even spahgetti really... It's all really still in the wire loom.

It's umm looking better? Well.. The drop def. gives it a little more of a stance, should look into an air-bag kit I know of one that costs $1,500.00-$2,000.00 range and it's a full kit. Compressor, bags, links, lines, everything.

Please if you do engine mods don't do a cold air intake like every ricer out there and GF... I don't want to see a nice truck riced out again... Oh! Almost forgot to add. Shave that tailgate man, give her a roll pan(try and find out that is also a bumper, if not.. Get a Blazer bumper), change the front bumper to a Tacoma bumper too <-- That is hella sexy.

[suicide_star]

In my opinion, shaving the tailgate and putting on a Taco bumper is the mini-truck equivalent of ricification. After it's running straight and the paint's all good, I'm going to look into a cam kit and porting the stock exhaust manifolds (extra flow for free =) ) then possibly PnP on the heads and a tune if there's money left over.

[suicide_star]

I've been slackin'. =( Got the hood primered black, the fender's filled in (had 2 holes in each fender for the emblems), the entire frame sanded and undercoated, the rear end cleaned up and painted gunmetal, the intake manifold cover and brake fluid reservoir cover painted gunmetal, custom fuse box under the hood (so very custom...adds epic horsepower), new fuel lines, new oil cooler lines, hmmmm...that's about it. I'll have pics up soon and I hope to have it all one color very soon.

[suicide_star]

S-10 Progress....
Pulled a leaf
New OEM grille
stock 4.3 intake
radiator overflow
door handles, locks, and windows functioning properly
fuel pump fixed
stock lower valence added to front bumper
roll pan
i'm sure there's more, but a lot of it is restoring it (lots of parts were missing) with junkyard finds and finishing adapting the 4.3 and components to the truck which was originally outfitted with a 2.8. This required finding late model first gens with the newer model 4.3 in them. Anyways, here's some pics of progress.










After the paint/bodywork is completed, I plan on camming it, fabbing a scoop and supplemental duct to the stock intake for ram air, possibly some new lights/turn signals and who knows...

[Blade.]

Sealed Beam coversion kit for a halogen bulb?????

[Bananabrain]

You made some good progress. Just do a HID conversion kit for the headlights, great lighting & they just look cool.

[suicide_star]

I've actually got HID's in the shed that I'm not using yet. Next trip to the junk yard is going to be for a disc brake rear end and sway bars.

[Bananabrain]

Originally Posted by suicide_star

I've actually got HID's in the shed that I'm not using yet. Next trip to the junk yard is going to be for a disc brake rear end and sway bars.

Thats cool. lol

Wish I could find a 10 or 12 bolt rear end with disc brakes, 3:73 gears with either a posi or limited slip for my truck at the local salvage yard.

Haven't had much luck with finding all three of those combined in one.

[Blade.]

You are still going to have to do a conversion from the current sealed beams to a removable bulb on the Gen.1 S10s.

You should just get the rear disc conversion kit comes with everything you need, and seeing at the Gen.1 S10's already have a hydraulic braking system you don't have to change out your master at all.

You should also, look into something for the vacuum based venting system. When I left my S10(when it was mine) with the vents open spiders got into the truck's cab, and I didn't understand until I saw one crawl up through the vent. Freaked me out.

[texan_idiot25]

Originally Posted by Blade.

You should just get the rear disc conversion kit comes with everything you need, and seeing at the Gen.1 S10's already have a hydraulic braking system you don't have to change out your master at all.

Wrong. All modern cars, and just about every car since post-war have hydrolic brakes. That's not the issue, but piston size and valving in the system that's different between drums and discs is. Discs typically have more volume in their pistons than drums have in their wheel cylinder. It takes more fluid to actuate them. Using an undersized MC won't give them enough fluid to really bite down. On top of that, the distribution block is different between them to make up for the different reaction speeds between drums and discs.

And it all has a profound effect on braking. I ran the CST10 for a short while with the drum/drum MC after the build. Found a stock disc/drum MC and booster, with distributing block and the difference between them is crazy. Less likely to lock up, far better stopping power and finesse. Another example is when I put the bigger Honda brakes onto the CRX, which had slightly larger pistons. While braking over all was much improved, thanks to the larger pad area, it took more pedal to stop since the smaller MC had to push more fluid to actuate the larger caliper pistons. The easy junkyard fix is the larger Integra MC.

It's all connected.

[Blade.]

Originally Posted by texan_idiot25

Wrong. All modern cars, and just about every car since post-war have hydrolic brakes. That's not the issue, but piston size and valving in the system that's different between drums and discs is. Discs typically have more volume in their pistons than drums have in their wheel cylinder. It takes more fluid to actuate them. Using an undersized MC won't give them enough fluid to really bite down. On top of that, the distribution block is different between them to make up for the different reaction speeds between drums and discs.

And it all has a profound effect on braking. I ran the CST10 for a short while with the drum/drum MC after the build. Found a stock disc/drum MC and booster, with distributing block and the difference between them is crazy. Less likely to lock up, far better stopping power and finesse. Another example is when I put the bigger Honda brakes onto the CRX, which had slightly larger pistons. While braking over all was much improved, thanks to the larger pad area, it took more pedal to stop since the smaller MC had to push more fluid to actuate the larger caliper pistons. The easy junkyard fix is the larger Integra MC.

It's all connected.

Well I may have messed up when I put rear disc on the 88' and let it go with the stock master haha but that is ok, she didn't have any sort of traction control or ABS system in her. However, I made sure that the pedal had no play in it. I didn't want any sort of play in the brake pedal, even with the Camry, I took out of 1/2" of play it had, I hate play on brake pedals.

Also, do a front disc/hub conversion. It gets to be a pain in the *** when you have to resurface your front disc's and have to take your entire hub off the spindal. Plus, then it will allow you to run different discs

[texan_idiot25]

It has nothing to do with ABS or TC, nor anything about play. It's the most basic variables of the whole braking system; size of the piston that's pushing the fluid and the size of the piston being pushed...

[Blade.]

Quite true. I always forget about that... I'm more on the go go go side than the well... Time to stop side..

[suicide_star]

@ Blade...This was your post in regards to your S-10

"I have been porting and polishing the intake/exhaust ports, I have gotten new push rods, rocker arms, new piston rings, new camshaft, new distributor, wires, spark plugs, oil ring, new headers, new valve covers, new carburator(brand new.), new fuel regulator, new fuel injectors, new heads(aluminum), new torque converter, new flex plate, new water pump, new belts, pulleys and tensioners, and a new alternator.

No pictures sadly, I accidently crushed my phone(LG Dare). So I'm SoL for picture taking now.

I'm estimating around 400hp to the crankshaft with all of this, although that's an estimation. Only stock items on the 4.3L is the Oil Pan, Oil Pick-up, Block and Piston Connecting Rods and Piston Heads."

First off, how can you have new fuel injectors if you've got a new carb? Secondly, how will replacing lots of stock stuff with lots of aftermarket stuff that does pretty much the same as stock stuff give you 400hp out of a 200hp engine? I like you and all, but you really don't know what you're talking about half of the time. If you think I'm full of it, copy and paste everything in your S10 thread on here onto the s10forums and see what people have to say.
I appreciate input, but not bullsh*t.

Edit: '84 and up S10's can take the rear disc brake conversion without any modification to the lines or master cylinder. Just in case you guys were wondering.

[suicide_star]

Well...I wanted one of these..
, but not enough to pay $200 for it...soooo...I made one.







Total Cost: $40...Unfortunately, the only fog lights that I could find locally were those blue ones, but they get the job done....more to come...

[Bananabrain]

Bumper looks great, so do the fogs.