#21
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HICAS is hardly alot (and I've heard unreliable) of steering, just a few degrees. I want ALOT of steering in that set-up... Rock Crawler...?
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#22
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but it's a track car. have normal steer w/ tight turns in front, and a stock servo in back. then turn your steering trim down
course you'd have to reverse the 3 wires from the back servo
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#23
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Not Hicas, but more to the point, the IFS from the gen1 is much better then the IRS swing axles. With this, you have consistant alignment through the whole length of travel. Not only this, but camber, and toe are also adjustable on the rear.
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#24
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And this wont have rear steer sorry to disapoint some of you guys Its no crawler, not enought suspension travel for an indy crawler and no articulation on this chassis. anyways i still gotta cut another knuckles mount piece and then assembly all. |
#25
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If you really want to make this bad boy a track car, then hit up the Minizracer forums and just browse through some of the threads. It'll help you understand all of the tuning aspects these little things are capable of, and help you realize how obsolete half the xmods parts are...
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One thing you'll have with the stock xmod front IFS is that its horribly sloppy. You need to break out the epoxy and fill in holes and file away plastic until it is at the desired smoothness. Stick to plastic though. The only thing you may need in GPM is the knuckles. So will this bad boy be AWD? If not, then it may not be a bad idea to ditch anything shaft, and go with a direct drive similar to an MR-02/MR-015... Later, RedSXmodder |
#26
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hobby grade servo and elecs on your list?
in my opinion, GPM should be on the knuckles, shocks, and towers- the most sloppy parts of any xmod. the rest of an xmod is ok. just my $.02 plastic arms > gpm arms why? i don't really get that.
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#27
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IMO, GPM should be on the cups, CVD's and knuckles. Get a nice and smooth drivetrain is all i am looking for, Of course bearings too. |
#28
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Well, I decided to go with a 98 mm setup to be able to fit a pancar body and i drawed a template of my chassis.
i might go with Cf But i can't order some right now. we'll see later on! Last edited by c1v1c; 08-17-2008 at 05:48 PM.. |
#30
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I'm really diggin the fully independent (zero camber/caster shock travel) idea. It should be great when its done! Slap some MA-01 wheels on er (load truer than stock xmod rims) and it'll be a decent racer!
Later, RedSXmodder |
#32
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UPDATE: SHE'S A ROLLER! Red is actually better then yellow IMO. The rear tie rod is just a mock-up, nothing permanent. Anyways thats it for tonight. |
#34
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that's pretty sweet, i've been trying to do an aluminum frame for one of my evo's or even gen 1 but can't get it right....but your's is awesome good work....
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#36
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Old!
I really, really like the tie-rod thing. Chassis bracing AND it holds the knuckles in place. Looks sweet too... No progress though? Your pictures make me wanna go work on my Gen1's again. You wanna cut me up a chassis? Or you have a link to your template?
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#38
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SWEET that is amazing. where is the rear mount going to go?
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#39
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Hm... guess I didn't warn you early enough, but if you were planning for a pan car you should've tried to make the front end the wider end. The way you can use narrow offset narrow wheels in front and wide offset wide wheels in back, which will fit perfectly and give you better handling. True, you'd need a custom tierod but it'd be worth it.
How much effort would it take you to make a new chassis? Your current one looks pretty good, I'd guess a couple hours of handiwork.
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#40
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I could probably rebuild the front tierod out of turnbuckles set and a micro servo.
If I decide to go RWD, I could possibly get the front end wider...I'll need your thoughts on this one: AWD or RWD. Finally, the chassis was a bit offset so I'll just cut out a new one. And thanks for all your inputs guys! Really appreciated. |
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