#21
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the colder the more you wrap it.... If it's 44 degrees u don't need to wrap the whole head... Just partial u start from the top. Temp gun is a must, yes the spit thing works but it's not the best solution a temp gun is around 25 bucks for one that will do the job.
Ubwant it in the 220-250 range temp is most important when breaking it in. Another thing that works is wraping a sock around the head. Last edited by badass_savage; 12-24-2008 at 04:44 PM.. |
#22
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wouldnt a stock burn? lol then agian maybe not 220 degrees i guess isnt that hot...
but ive never owned a heat gun a day in my life. ive been running nitros for 8+ years... they are not a must. just handy. |
#23
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nope the sock won't burn it's actully better the tin foil, but it's should only be used if it's really cold otherwise use the foil.
As for the temp gun it's a really handy tool and for 25 bucks it's cheap insurance. It helps a lot with tuning and adding life to the engine. Your not going to want to have to countinueously have to spit on the head and watch it. With a nitro temp is one of the most important things. |
#24
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thanks for the tips guys. yeah i went out and bought a temp gun today when i wrapped up my xmas shopping. Im going to give it a go tomorrow since its supposed to be sunny and like 48. But the ground is still probably going to be a little wet since it rained all day today....should i run it or no?
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#25
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run it hard! (after you break it in of course)
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#27
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not gonna hurt it one bit. only thing it will hurt is your tires. you'll get to wanting to do donuts and stuff and you'll run em bald haha.
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#29
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Sorry about the late response but when it is cold, parts become brittle. I have experience with this unfortunately. Running in a large field is free from a very hard surface and curbs which in a high speed wreck could be very bad.
__________________
Brushless RC18T, Brushless Micro DT, Midwest AeroStar .20, SCX10 Honcho, Duratrax 1/5 Firehammer MT, Traxxas Nitro 4Tec 3.3 |
#30
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so i go out today to break it in. Im driving it down at the beach parking lot way in the back corner away from any possible traffic. Things were going great, i was on my 4th tank and it was running really fast and hard. The thing flies. Well one of my friends must have seen me and drove up to where i was. I didnt see him, and apparently he didnt see my rusty.....well it got ran over. Lucky me only the fron right section got damaged. Rim snapped in many places, and the steering knuckle snapped in half. The shock seems fine, as does the A-arm. Steering servo works and the engine fires right up. anyways here are some pics of the carnage....man this sucks....first time running it too....
sorry for the crappy pics....photography isnt my thing lol....and i just took it apart. I may only need a rim. i could possibly jb weld the steering knuckle back together because it only broke in one place. But i may just use this opportunity to buy aluminum stuff....idk but i definatly need a rim and tire |
#31
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If y get alumumium stay away from integy, there products are garbage. If I were u i'd stick with plastic, it might not be flashy but it's the best. A steering knuckle should be 5 bucks or so, a rim use ebay, ull need a tire and foam insert aswel, it's a pita to get those tires off.
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#32
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man that wasnt even bad carnage for your first run. Be happy thats a cheap fix lol. your going to have looots of issues like that.
Like badass said, stay away from integy, its worse than the stock plastic. Stay away from ALL aluminum. aluminum is junk. RPM plastic is your best bet. Unless you can find titanium. which as far as i know, is still only produced for the T and E maxx. |
#35
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yeah i am so grateful. this could have been soo much worse. if it hit his tire another inch or two to the left my whole front end would have been fubar.......thankfully the parts can be had pretty cheap, i just hope my hobby shop has the rims and tires...
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#36
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Quote:
the nice hting about these. is there is never anything you can fix. my first truck i got was a stadium truck like yours. my throttle got stuck at wide open and of course it took off. after bouncing off a tire, fire hydrant and light poll, the chassis U shaped so bad my motor was touching my front shock tower. replace the broken plastic, hammer, jump and stomp the chassis flat again. and it was good to go. After i bought a new motor because it was siezed haha. So really even getting ran over, it would survice to run another day. it just depends if its cheaper to buy a new truck, or replace the parts lol. ive walked out of my hobby shop a couple times wondering why i just didnt buy a brand new truck... because it would have honestly been cheaper. they will always have tires that fit. but they might not have the stock wheels. but you can always find a set that will work. and just find something cooler looking good luck on the rebuild! |
#37
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^^ Yeah, i called my hobby shop today, luckily they had one more steering knuckle, but they dont have any of the stock tires. Ill just either buy a new set, or just one to throw on there until i get the set im hoping to win on e***....
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#39
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Ouch. Stay away from aluminum for now as it will bend. Also stay away from Integy..worst aluminum! RPM is your best bet and you can get it in black so it will look stock.
__________________
Brushless RC18T, Brushless Micro DT, Midwest AeroStar .20, SCX10 Honcho, Duratrax 1/5 Firehammer MT, Traxxas Nitro 4Tec 3.3 |
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