#21
|
||||
|
||||
The lower valence is in the bed of the truck. I'm going to keep the grille, but it, the mirrors, lower valence, headlight bezels, etc are all going to get painted body color. The rust isn't too terrible on the rear of the frame. When I get around to painting, I'm going to pull the bed, sandblast it, and spray it down with undercoating. I'm also going to run the exhaust when I get the bed off. Today, I need to prime the cowl hood because it's bare metal at the moment, and I'm going to drop the front end.
|
#23
|
||||
|
||||
Update:
After lots of wire tracing, I finally got the truck to crank and run off of ether. The fuel pump works, but there are leaks throughout the line, so I'm going to replace it all. We connected the hood pop cable, the throttle cable to the gas pedal, and I found a paint system from Eastwood that I'm going to use to spray it. It's a single stage metallic grey urethane and epoxy surfacer primer. The paint job SHOULD cost around $200. I've already got all the bondo and spot putty here for body work. Hopefully I can stay within my $2k budget for this truck. We'll see. |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
No, the wiring is not crazy... It's not even spahgetti really... It's all really still in the wire loom.
It's umm looking better? Well.. The drop def. gives it a little more of a stance, should look into an air-bag kit I know of one that costs $1,500.00-$2,000.00 range and it's a full kit. Compressor, bags, links, lines, everything. Please if you do engine mods don't do a cold air intake like every ricer out there and GF... I don't want to see a nice truck riced out again... Oh! Almost forgot to add. Shave that tailgate man, give her a roll pan(try and find out that is also a bumper, if not.. Get a Blazer bumper), change the front bumper to a Tacoma bumper too <-- That is hella sexy. |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
In my opinion, shaving the tailgate and putting on a Taco bumper is the mini-truck equivalent of ricification. After it's running straight and the paint's all good, I'm going to look into a cam kit and porting the stock exhaust manifolds (extra flow for free =) ) then possibly PnP on the heads and a tune if there's money left over.
|
#27
|
||||
|
||||
I've been slackin'. =( Got the hood primered black, the fender's filled in (had 2 holes in each fender for the emblems), the entire frame sanded and undercoated, the rear end cleaned up and painted gunmetal, the intake manifold cover and brake fluid reservoir cover painted gunmetal, custom fuse box under the hood (so very custom...adds epic horsepower), new fuel lines, new oil cooler lines, hmmmm...that's about it. I'll have pics up soon and I hope to have it all one color very soon.
|
#28
|
||||
|
||||
S-10 Progress....
Pulled a leaf New OEM grille stock 4.3 intake radiator overflow door handles, locks, and windows functioning properly fuel pump fixed stock lower valence added to front bumper roll pan i'm sure there's more, but a lot of it is restoring it (lots of parts were missing) with junkyard finds and finishing adapting the 4.3 and components to the truck which was originally outfitted with a 2.8. This required finding late model first gens with the newer model 4.3 in them. Anyways, here's some pics of progress. After the paint/bodywork is completed, I plan on camming it, fabbing a scoop and supplemental duct to the stock intake for ram air, possibly some new lights/turn signals and who knows... |
#32
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Wish I could find a 10 or 12 bolt rear end with disc brakes, 3:73 gears with either a posi or limited slip for my truck at the local salvage yard. Haven't had much luck with finding all three of those combined in one.
__________________
Respect the Afro, Because i Have one. TEAM XI
|
#33
|
|||
|
|||
You are still going to have to do a conversion from the current sealed beams to a removable bulb on the Gen.1 S10s.
You should just get the rear disc conversion kit comes with everything you need, and seeing at the Gen.1 S10's already have a hydraulic braking system you don't have to change out your master at all. You should also, look into something for the vacuum based venting system. When I left my S10(when it was mine) with the vents open spiders got into the truck's cab, and I didn't understand until I saw one crawl up through the vent. Freaked me out. |
#34
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
And it all has a profound effect on braking. I ran the CST10 for a short while with the drum/drum MC after the build. Found a stock disc/drum MC and booster, with distributing block and the difference between them is crazy. Less likely to lock up, far better stopping power and finesse. Another example is when I put the bigger Honda brakes onto the CRX, which had slightly larger pistons. While braking over all was much improved, thanks to the larger pad area, it took more pedal to stop since the smaller MC had to push more fluid to actuate the larger caliper pistons. The easy junkyard fix is the larger Integra MC. It's all connected.
__________________
You know what I'm gonna do? I'm gonna get myself a 1967 Cadillac Eldorado convertible, hot pink, with whale
skin hubcaps and all leather cow interior and big brown baby seal eyes for headlights. Yeah! And I'm gonna drive around in that baby at 115 miles an hour, getting 1 mile per gallon. I may be king of the idiots, but my kingdom is vast and my subjects are everywhere Last edited by texan_idiot25; 01-25-2011 at 10:31 AM.. |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Also, do a front disc/hub conversion. It gets to be a pain in the *** when you have to resurface your front disc's and have to take your entire hub off the spindal. Plus, then it will allow you to run different discs |
#36
|
||||
|
||||
It has nothing to do with ABS or TC, nor anything about play. It's the most basic variables of the whole braking system; size of the piston that's pushing the fluid and the size of the piston being pushed...
__________________
You know what I'm gonna do? I'm gonna get myself a 1967 Cadillac Eldorado convertible, hot pink, with whale
skin hubcaps and all leather cow interior and big brown baby seal eyes for headlights. Yeah! And I'm gonna drive around in that baby at 115 miles an hour, getting 1 mile per gallon. I may be king of the idiots, but my kingdom is vast and my subjects are everywhere |
#38
|
||||
|
||||
@ Blade...This was your post in regards to your S-10
"I have been porting and polishing the intake/exhaust ports, I have gotten new push rods, rocker arms, new piston rings, new camshaft, new distributor, wires, spark plugs, oil ring, new headers, new valve covers, new carburator(brand new.), new fuel regulator, new fuel injectors, new heads(aluminum), new torque converter, new flex plate, new water pump, new belts, pulleys and tensioners, and a new alternator. No pictures sadly, I accidently crushed my phone(LG Dare). So I'm SoL for picture taking now. I'm estimating around 400hp to the crankshaft with all of this, although that's an estimation. Only stock items on the 4.3L is the Oil Pan, Oil Pick-up, Block and Piston Connecting Rods and Piston Heads." First off, how can you have new fuel injectors if you've got a new carb? Secondly, how will replacing lots of stock stuff with lots of aftermarket stuff that does pretty much the same as stock stuff give you 400hp out of a 200hp engine? I like you and all, but you really don't know what you're talking about half of the time. If you think I'm full of it, copy and paste everything in your S10 thread on here onto the s10forums and see what people have to say. I appreciate input, but not bullsh*t. Edit: '84 and up S10's can take the rear disc brake conversion without any modification to the lines or master cylinder. Just in case you guys were wondering. Last edited by suicide_star; 01-25-2011 at 05:01 PM.. |
#39
|
||||
|
||||
Well...I wanted one of these..
, but not enough to pay $200 for it...soooo...I made one. Total Cost: $40...Unfortunately, the only fog lights that I could find locally were those blue ones, but they get the job done....more to come... |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|