Go Back   XmodSource.com > Xmods > XMOD Videos
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Gallery iTrader Today's Posts

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-18-2010, 11:34 AM
WhiteCharisma's Avatar
WhiteCharisma WhiteCharisma is offline
Drift maniac
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 151
Trader Rating: (7)
Default Quick Drifting Tutorials

I don't know if anyone would even be interested but I made a drift tutorial because I was trying to get use to some new settings on my car. Here are the links if you wanna check them out.

part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qAquAWExgk

part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0WaYxQ51Gg

enjoy! the settings list is in the description.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-18-2010, 12:08 PM
merc3des's Avatar
merc3des merc3des is offline
Elite member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 550
Trader Rating: (4)
Send a message via AIM to merc3des
Default

Very nice I like all the electronics description, the car is very smooth
__________________
Feel free to ask me anything Xmods related. Chances are I know the answer, or can tell you someone that does.

Mercedes Track Car v2 (50% finished) :
http://www.xmodsource.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18360

Comeback Supra Project (trust me tune in):
http://www.xmodsource.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20546
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-18-2010, 03:22 PM
Action B's Avatar
Action B Action B is offline
Elite member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 424
Trader Rating: (8)
Default

I've always admired your drifting talent. I want to see you try drifting an MA-010. Xmods are so FAT compared to Mini-Z AWD. They weigh a lot more! I'd have to think that lighter would usually be better for drifting.

For instance

Here I have an xmod evo

REAR wheel drive
Foam tires
plastic busings not bearings
no battery clip (misplaced it)
no batteries or body
few screws missing
no crystal in car
no antenna on car

Weight: 108.5g

My girlfriends Mini-Z AWD

no batteries or body
all metal bearings
alloy universals
alloy front clip
alloy knuckles all around
alloy rear tie-rod
alloy motor heatsink
alloy pinion gear
alloy front steering arm
alloy fron bulkhead
stock driveshaft

Weight - 107.9g
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-18-2010, 03:32 PM
cycygrace's Avatar
cycygrace cycygrace is offline
Im So Smart I Seem Dumb
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: westport, mass
Posts: 47
Trader Rating: (0)
Send a message via Skype™ to cycygrace
Default

i just put in new bearings and my car and it drifts pretty good now
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-18-2010, 03:49 PM
trans_am_lover_79's Avatar
trans_am_lover_79 trans_am_lover_79 is offline
noob customizer
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 116
Trader Rating: (3)
Default

Im definitely envious of your drifting skills. I saw your first two drifting videos and had to show all of my friends that own Xmods.
+1 for the tut vids
__________________
Needing some Civic & G35 head/tail light lenses
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-19-2010, 11:04 PM
WhiteCharisma's Avatar
WhiteCharisma WhiteCharisma is offline
Drift maniac
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 151
Trader Rating: (7)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by merc3des View Post
Very nice I like all the electronics description, the car is very smooth
Thanks! Yeah it took a while to do them. Youtube deleted it the first time...i was frustrated for a while

Quote:
Originally Posted by Action B View Post
I've always admired your drifting talent. I want to see you try drifting an MA-010. Xmods are so FAT compared to Mini-Z AWD. They weigh a lot more! I'd have to think that lighter would usually be better for drifting.

For instance

Here I have an xmod evo

REAR wheel drive
Foam tires
plastic busings not bearings
no battery clip (misplaced it)
no batteries or body
few screws missing
no crystal in car
no antenna on car

Weight: 108.5g

My girlfriends Mini-Z AWD

no batteries or body
all metal bearings
alloy universals
alloy front clip
alloy knuckles all around
alloy rear tie-rod
alloy motor heatsink
alloy pinion gear
alloy front steering arm
alloy fron bulkhead
stock driveshaft

Weight - 107.9g
Well that doesn't look like much of a difference. But I don't have the money to buy one. Also i have a ton of spares and I know how an xmod works. I saw one hell of a deal for one on the bay though....i really want it, but i dont have the cash. Anyways, its funny to outdrift a more expensive car

Quote:
Originally Posted by cycygrace View Post
i just put in new bearings and my car and it drifts pretty good now
Thats good to hear! Happy Drifting!
Quote:
Originally Posted by trans_am_lover_79 View Post
Im definitely envious of your drifting skills. I saw your first two drifting videos and had to show all of my friends that own Xmods.
+1 for the tut vids
Thanks! Yeah i made them because i was using it as practice. I had to get use to running 1.5mm offset wheels in the back. Its pretty different from 0 offset. Thanks for spreadin the word i appreciate it!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-19-2010, 11:27 PM
Action B's Avatar
Action B Action B is offline
Elite member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 424
Trader Rating: (8)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteCharisma View Post
Well that doesn't look like much of a difference. But I don't have the money to buy one. Also i have a ton of spares and I know how an xmod works. I saw one hell of a deal for one on the bay though....i really want it, but i dont have the cash. Anyways, its funny to outdrift a more expensive car
Well, thats the thing. Even with all the alloy on the mini-z and the xmod being only rwd the Z was still lighter. AWD setup stock vs. stock your talking a very significant weight difference. Alloy is significantly heavier than plastic.

You have drift battles? Your skill is good but your car doesn't outdrift more expensive cars, your skill does. I'm not really a drifter so I can't say that I have any real drifting skill. I guess I could give it a shot.

Don't take it t he wrong way, I'm saying your very skilled and I'd like to see your skills driving a Mini-Z with the more precise parts and lighter chassis. Since I can't imagine you being much better the idea interests me. I like to see people go beyond what I even thought was possible.

Last edited by Action B; 01-19-2010 at 11:29 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:03 AM
brettley's Avatar
brettley brettley is offline
Raycer
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Suburbs, Minnesota
Posts: 158
Trader Rating: (0)
Send a message via AIM to brettley Send a message via MSN to brettley
Default

i gott'a say, you've convinced me to turn one of my cars into a drifting car XD this looks really fun =D
__________________

2010 Mustang EVO ----- 65 Mustang EVO
Z06 Corvette EVO ------ 350z Gen1
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-21-2010, 12:06 AM
XMDrifter's Avatar
XMDrifter XMDrifter is offline
drifter and engineer
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: St Louis
Posts: 2,179
Trader Rating: (5)
Send a message via AIM to XMDrifter
Default

i got the same tires you do. i just need to practice on better surface. i got this weird tile, and it totally messesup my drifts every time. it's worse than sidewalk cracks.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-22-2010, 12:31 PM
merc3des's Avatar
merc3des merc3des is offline
Elite member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 550
Trader Rating: (4)
Send a message via AIM to merc3des
Default

You should try blacktop drifting, or pavement. That would be really impressive. PVC tires are supposed to be good for that.
__________________
Feel free to ask me anything Xmods related. Chances are I know the answer, or can tell you someone that does.

Mercedes Track Car v2 (50% finished) :
http://www.xmodsource.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18360

Comeback Supra Project (trust me tune in):
http://www.xmodsource.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20546
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-22-2010, 02:06 PM
brettley's Avatar
brettley brettley is offline
Raycer
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Suburbs, Minnesota
Posts: 158
Trader Rating: (0)
Send a message via AIM to brettley Send a message via MSN to brettley
Default

i've got drifting tires coming to me from tripleX once i get my new 350z body that he is doing for me =P do you think a stage 2 motor with 9 tooth will be good enough for drifting it? all else is stock =P
__________________

2010 Mustang EVO ----- 65 Mustang EVO
Z06 Corvette EVO ------ 350z Gen1
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-22-2010, 10:23 PM
XMDrifter's Avatar
XMDrifter XMDrifter is offline
drifter and engineer
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: St Louis
Posts: 2,179
Trader Rating: (5)
Send a message via AIM to XMDrifter
Default

i think stage-2 is kinda overkill, but i guess if you had neo's you'd be fine.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-22-2010, 10:28 PM
mycrors4's Avatar
mycrors4 mycrors4 is offline
retired xmodder
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
Posts: 1,177
Trader Rating: (4)
Send a message via AIM to mycrors4
Default

wouldnt u need more torque to drift? cause 9t pinion gives more top end speed, i say move up to like 10 or 11
__________________
Any questions about 1/18 and bigger scale r/c? I'm just one Private Message away

Check out my B/S/T Thread

Want remixes of some songs... PM me.. I has DJ programing software

Inventor of the idea of using Bob Saget to name R/C parts

٩(-̮̮̃•̃)۶
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-22-2010, 11:31 PM
dontspamme's Avatar
dontspamme dontspamme is offline
Gen 1 junkie !
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Vancouver BC Canada
Posts: 1,457
Trader Rating: (6)
Send a message via AIM to dontspamme Send a message via MSN to dontspamme
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mycrors4 View Post
wouldnt u need more torque to drift? cause 9t pinion gives more top end speed, i say move up to like 10 or 11
You have it the other way around, lower the teeth count, more torque. And I would say a stage one would be better then a stage two. The S1s have more torque which is needed for drifting.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-22-2010, 11:42 PM
WhiteCharisma's Avatar
WhiteCharisma WhiteCharisma is offline
Drift maniac
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 151
Trader Rating: (7)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dontspamme View Post
You have it the other way around, lower the teeth count, more torque. And I would say a stage one would be better then a stage two. The S1s have more torque which is needed for drifting.
Thank you...if you guys read the description in the video, i explained that
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 03-06-2010, 04:07 PM
xModer69 xModer69 is offline
xMod Freak
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 11
Trader Rating: (0)
Send a message via AIM to xModer69
Default

Thanks for sharing the tutorial, I'd love to use this and improve my technetium on drifting.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-06-2010, 04:22 PM
Howlsatmoonlight Howlsatmoonlight is offline
Advance member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 142
Trader Rating: (3)
Default

I am sure he appreciates your thanks, but please be careful bumping old threads
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 07-21-2010, 01:23 PM
WhiteCharisma's Avatar
WhiteCharisma WhiteCharisma is offline
Drift maniac
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 151
Trader Rating: (7)
Default

Sorry for the old thread bump but I thought I should post the description of my video here too so people can use it as a quick reference to drifting setups. Despite telling people to read the description, there are still some people asking me what is the best setup -_- So heres the description from my videos filled with stuff to help you start drifting.


This is my quick drifting tutorial for xmods. Here's a setup list that you need to start drifting right out of the box:
-All wheel drive
-Drift tires (Radioshack or Aftermarket ones)
-Stage 1 motor w/stock gearing or 8-25 gearing**
**Depending on the surface, you want to use either a Stage 1 or a Stage 2. If you are drifting on carpet, use the Stage 2 to get more power. Also for drifting on concrete or just outside, use the Stage 2 and Aftermarket drifting tires. The RadioShack tires will wear out very quickly and you'll end up burning them down to the bare rim. I ended up doing that...

Optional parts for Gen 1:
This is pretty much the same as the Evo chassis. The only thing you can change is the battery height. You can cut off the mounts on the chassis and the battery holders. Then you can mount the batteries lower with glue. Remember to test it with the springs in so you can get the most compression out of your springs. Don't mount it so low that the springs can't compress.

Optional parts for Evo:

Suspension
-Lowering arms for both front and rear. It stiffens the suspension and lowers the car. If you are using the Radioshack tires, this may be too low and the car will scrape/drag, so if it does, just use the stock setting.

Spring settings: I've used a ton of combos, but these are some that you can use as a drift setup

-Blue springs in front, Red in the rear. This the setup that will allow you to get in a drift the fastest. Its hard to maintain angle with it for long periods of time though. It does get the most angle out of a drift, and its very sensitive to turning.
-All stock springs. This setup is the one you get right away. It slows down the turning because its soft. So if you don't like the jerky turning of an xmod, then this setup is for you. Its great if you are drifting in a pretty open area. The drifts will be longer with this setup.
-Yellow springs in front, Red in the rear. This is my favorite setup. Yellow springs are a bit stiffer in the front then the stock ones so it reacts to turning just a bit faster then stock. I can hold drifts for a long time with this setup, so I recommend it.
-All Red springs. Now if you are still having trouble with jerky or sensitive steering then use this setup. Its very slow, and your turning will be slowed down dramatically. If you drift outside, use this setup because its made for long drifts.

Differentials: Locked or unlocked is the question, and there are two answers depending on which chassis you are using.

1. If you have a Gen 1 car, then lock your diffs. The diffs on these cars are very loose. You'll end up spinning out a ton if you drift with open diffs. Another setup is having the rear differential locked. This is called the "Countersteer" setup along with some other settings. This will require a lot of countersteering and is hard to control with stock xmod electronics.
2. If you have an Evolution car, then DO NOT lock your diffs! Why? Because these cars are heavy, and need all the help they can get to turn. It may not be noticeable in open areas, but in tight areas like where I drift its noticeable that the car doesn't want to turn when the diffs are locked. So keep them unlocked. My car in the video is the perfect example, it has open diffs throughout this whole tutorial.

Electronics: Now, this is where drifting differs. My car doesn't have normal electronics. I don't own them anymore because they aren't very precise. Stock xmod electronics only have 3 levels of throttle and steering. For steering is slightly turned, half turned, then full lock. Throttle is slight throttle, half throttle, and full throttle. With a Hobby Grade PCB like my car, then you have every level in between. My car has about 7-10 levels of turning and steering. Its helpful to be very precise and not only does it help with drifting, but it also helps in overall handling and at the track.

Part 2. Go to part one if you need a setup for drifting. I just used this tutorial to practice drifting with 1.5mm offset wheels in the rear of my car

Electronics continued

Heres a list of compatible electronics to use in an xmod:

-Micro-T ESC and Servo. This is a great board to start out with to go Hobby Grade. This was my first conversion into my Gen 1. It has great throttle and steering response. It'll run from $30 to $45. I use the stock Micro-T remote which is about $20 to $40. If you're lucky like me you can find one for $8...
-iWaver PCB-This is a copy of a Mini-z board. I have one in my Skyline Drift car that you can see in my other videos. Its a huge improvement over stock electronics. It glitches from time to time too. Its the cheapest out of the bunch here. Its only around $20 but you'll need a 2ch remote/transmitter which is about another $20. $40 isn't bad to make your car handle much better comparable to a Z.
-Mini-Z PCB- The real version of an iWaver board. Its better in ways and doesn't glitch. Its definitely pricey. I haven't seen them go for under $35 dollars. If you know someone who is going 2.4ghz, they usually try to sell their old board at a fairly cheap price.
-RV Project 2wd/4wd PCB- This is the board my car uses throughout this tutorial. Its supposedly better than a Mini-z board because its an upgrade. It has a lot of manufacturer defects though, so buy it from somewhere that has a lot of customer service. I got another one for free when my first board didn't work. it ranges from $25 to $45.
-RPMZ board- I don't know much about it. I saw it in trainboy414's video so subscribe to him and ask him about it
__________________
Patience and careful work brings great results in Xmodding and life.

Team X.I.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 07-21-2010, 10:38 PM
winner winner is offline
Xmod Expert
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: atlanta georgia
Posts: 1,175
Trader Rating: (8)
Send a message via AIM to winner
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Samman11796 View Post
i also have a stock 67 camaro black with blue stripes and stock rims, what would be a good color scheme for that?
why dont you make a thread of your cars and ask your questions in there
__________________

XBL Gamer Tag : Roar Pants
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.