XXX TuT's: 3 - V2.2 "Better install"

[TripleXmodder(akaXXX)]

I actually got this from Atomicmods.com I talked to Christian and he told me this secret. (I don't know if it's a secret, but if you didn't know then here we go) on the V2.2 where you connect the motor in and the battery out are very small and is the reason for MOST of the fried boards you hear about. This is because, being that they are so small the wires end up touching each other during or after the soldering phase, causing an arch. Well you know those LARGE tabs (refer to photo) all the way on the other end of the board, well what could they be for ..... hmmmmm. Well those are there so that Atomicmods can check that the V2.2 board is working correctly. They just stick it in a card reader slot and test it. That being said those LARGE spots are exactly what the little itty bitty contact spots are that you are supposed to solder to. So if you install your V2.2 as per my photo, you should never have a fried V2.2 board.

***Special thanks to Christian at Atomicmods and everyone who has fried a V2.2 regulated board.

STEP 1 - Use this link http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories...tallation.aspx for your install. (this tut is for Gen1 chassis but it is the same for a EVO).

STEP 2 - When you get to this diagram (below) instead of conecting the wires as shown, to the small itty bitty spots connect them as per my photo and diagram.

Original AM Diagram:


AM Diagram of where your gonna solder too:


My Photo of a V2.2 install that won't fry.


Just like this baby.


PM me if you have ideas of wanted or needed Tutorials. Thanks.

[TheB1GDude]

Wow that's actually really interesting.... I guess it makes sense as for the card reader to get data back those larger tabs must trace somewhere....

Great tut! Maybe I'll get a v2.2 now

[TripleXmodder(akaXXX)]

Originally Posted by TheB1GDude

Wow that's actually really interesting.... I guess it makes sense as for the card reader to get data back those larger tabs must trace somewhere....

Great tut! Maybe I'll get a v2.2 now

Yeah, I use them alot and a couple yrs ago when I fried my first 2 I called and talked w/ Christian for awhile about it and that's what he told me. Just consider a V2.2 board can handle up to 30v and shouldn't fry (they also get rid of servo jitter). They usually fry because of the wires touching from bad soldering, or to put it simple, the cars are so fast people slam into stuff and wires move, etc (actually most people fry their motors not the board, because they ignore the warnings and don't run the right motor or run them to long drrrr). This will fix that and covering it with some heat shrink is even better. Just don't burn your motors. Here is all the info for the V2.2 READ before purchasing (They said they should be getting more made soon) (this is from Atomicmods.com) *** Also, make sure to do a clean solder job on those tabs, and if somthing was to go bad in the chip and you needed to send it back to atomicmods for repair you MUST get solder braid and do a CLEAN de-soldering to those tabs.

http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/V...rd__10107.aspx

Application Notes:
The installation of the V2 is simple since it is driven from the stock motor outputs. (see wiring diagram under "More Pictures") While the V2 allows extremely high voltages to be used, the best use is in an 8.4 volt car (2-Lithium Cells) with a high current motor. If you apply higher voltages than 8.4 you will fry most 130 size motors.
You may want to pick up some Pro Plugs and some Super Flex 18 Wire since it comes exactly as pictured. You should also be aware that the increase in current delivery is substantial.

Tutorial Link:V2 Board Installation
Team AtomicMods Comments:For a while now we have been held back by the stock XMOD electronics. The first limitation is the 8.4 maximum voltage limitation. The second is the stock FETs inability to handle high current motors. Even after a installing stacked FETs some cars will still have problems with the Mainboard overheating and shutting down after 5-7 minutes of hard racing. Another problem is the servo jittering from the higher voltage of the Lithium or 5 & 6 cell power systems. The V2 was engineered to solve all of those problems.

Warning:
I am seeing motors that never even broke a sweat before overheating after several minutes of hard driving with the body and a tall gear like the 11 tooth. At first I thought I had a battery or a board problem, but then I realized that the car was running so much harder that it was straining the motor like never before. My favorite use of the board is with a 2 cell Lithium car and a high current motor. I am getting 36 MPH out of that combination. While you can go up to 30 volts, you are going to have a hard time finding motors to handle it. You have been warned so don't come crying to me when you fry that $40 motor.


4/29/05 Update:
The FATBOY/ PN Racing Anima is doing a good job of handling the extreme current that V2 board can supply. So far it is the only motor I have had to hold up, including competitors motors.

3/30/06 Update:
The Atomic Motors with their open style endbells run much cooler and are a great match for the V2. The T2 and Z2 are both great matches, but be aware, your car will be faster than most can handle, so get ready for a handful.

No Questions Asked V2 Swap
The V2 is very durable, but if you manage to fry a board, I will exchange it for a flat $25 swap fee. You will need to return the bad board and pay for the swap. Select: "No Questions Asked" V2 Swap when buying this item. You can use this for a raw board or a V2EP. - Rob

For Use With:
XMOD Gen1(All)
XMOD Evo(All)
Mini-Z Cars (All)
Mini-Z Trucks (All)
iWaiver (All)

Specifications:
Quad Heavy Duty FETs
30 Volts Maximum
6 Volt Regulated Mainboard Output
Driven From 2 Wire Motor Output
Large Holes for our SuperFlex 18 Wire
Full Braking Support
Pro Printed Board
Weight - 5.5g
Size - 27.5mm x 41.4mm x 4mm

[XMDrifter]

hmmm that makes sense because the board doesn't need to receive that much power and it can't send much power either so the little traces on the card part wont meltdown...
the high volt/amp parts still use the thick traces...
i might think of getting my v2.2 swapped for a new one...