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  #1  
Old 11-19-2008, 11:41 AM
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Default Thinkin of getting one- few questions.

Please shed some light for me.

1. Whats the best chassis to get, any point in AWD over RWD?
2. For the price, how good is it out of the box?
3. Any Li-poly battery kits with chargers available?
4. How expensive/neccessary are upgrade parts? For Xmods, they're almost a must since stock car just plain old sucks.
5. Is there really no way to change the drive once you buy the chassis? Any way to make a FWD?
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  #2  
Old 11-19-2008, 12:19 PM
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If your referring to Mini-Z's because this is the Mini-Z and Micro-T section then:

1. For beginners I recommend the AWD as it is easier to drive but generally speaking RWD chassis can be picked up cheaper.

2. Very good - either AWD or RWD will kill a stock XMOD.

3. Not sure about polys as you don't really have the space to fit them, there are numerous options for running Li-Ions, you just need to do some minor modding.

4. They all help but stock the Mini-Z is pretty decent.

5. Nope - the chassis you buy pretty much defines what you run, I'm sure with a lot of work you could make the AWD a RWD but thats about it.

I don't really know much about the Micro-T's though....
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  #3  
Old 11-19-2008, 03:02 PM
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What are micro-T's? Size, brand difference?
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:10 PM
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Micro-T's are from Team Losi whereas Kyosho makes Mini-Z's

Same size but the Micro-Ts are trucks / buggies rather than cars!
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skv012a View Post
What are micro-T's? Size, brand difference?
lol, google much? micro-t's are 2wd(?) 1/36 scale(?) truck/buggies that are more for outside play then indoor tracks or whatnot. mini-z's are like and xmod but hobby grade and 10x better/awesomer!
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Old 11-24-2008, 01:00 AM
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Looks like I will be joining the Z ranks after all- Chrysler 300 readyset MIB for $61, if I like it I'll sell 1 Xmod with upgrades and buy FC/D or AE body and will start looking into upgrading that thing.
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:47 AM
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You wont be disappointed by any of Kyosho's Mini Z series.

IMO think the best chassis to get would be the AWD one. If your looking to drift right out of the box, the awd will do that no problem at all.

Right out of the box, the wow factor is better then Xmods. You'll be able to have more response, tighter turn radius and just all out better abilities then any " stock " Xmod.

You could probably stuff a Li-Poly, yeah it does make the thing have crazy speed but with a Mini Z, it just kind of ruins it. Think about Li-Poly a little bit later after you have had some time with the Mini Z.

The parts are kind of a down side, if you have a hobby shop that sells parts for Mini Z's or sells any Mini Z series your doing better than I am. Its hard for me finding a place to order parts at a good price, I'm still looking for a shop around here that will stock parts so that I don't have to buy online anymore.

But about parts, all of the parts WORK. They're all worth the money you buy them for but some of the most expensive parts are going to be ceramic bearings, differentials, some really good suspension parts and parts made by Kyosho will be extremely high but sometimes worth it.

Fwd, if you prowl on a forum that I wont mention on here. You'll see it is possible but you have to be a rocket scientist to do. Not literally, but just have a lot of time and alot of r&d.
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Old 11-24-2008, 02:05 PM
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If I like the 15 enough, I'll consider AWD, but the thing really costs an arm and a leg. As far as upgrades, how neccessary are any besides batteries? With Xmods, I only found motors and raising suspension to be of any use at all since there isn't an anti-wobbly-wheel upgrade nor a range booster.

Lemme add another important question about atomicmod's AAA size lion(lol and its shorter, fitting too given the power boost, right?) cells. They're made to fit into the stock battery trays with some mods to make the contacts fit better, but how would one charge them through chargers they sell? They don't have any AAA-size lion chargers, so how would one go about charging those?
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Old 11-24-2008, 03:44 PM
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You could go with the Li-Ion cells. I am not sure if AtomicMods makes a li-ion pack for the mr-015 specifically.

If you run with those AAA li-ions your more then likely going to have to home brew it for the mr015, meaning modify the chassis, do whatever you need to with the battery tabs and the wires and all that.

I have yet seen anyone on a forum with a lithium powered mr015.

I think it would be best just to stick with Nimhs.

It doesn't hurt to ask around either, theres some people on here that know lots of things about stepping it up with lithium and also ask AtomicMods about it, they can be a big help. I haven't had a MR015 but I have had a MR02 and several MA010'S but when money comes short I end up parting them out and selling them as whole. But I am getting my last MA010 this week.

As for upgrades for the mr015, I would get some sheilded bearings, different compound tires, a couple of different spring rates for the front and the top shock some stainless kingpins and roll with that for a little bit and see how you like that.

Arm and leg?!?!
You must be a young n, but you will see that its worth the money if you take good care of it and not trash the thing. Lithium will do it if you do not have enough room!

They aren't really meant for concrete either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #10  
Old 11-24-2008, 05:55 PM
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Thanks for all the advises and info.

As far as installing Liths, isn't it all the same? Zs or Xmods, as long as the pack has the voltage under board's maximum it will work, correct? I'm also not really concerned with making it look pretty on my first go- just duct taping them on will suffice as long as they work right, so my main concern is connecting them to each other(if that's necessary), the board, and then charging them somehow.

If anything, the MR02 base is under $10, I could always get that if its necessary.

Another question would be whether I can use the Xmod Li-Poly packs on a Z, but this is really a sub-question to the previous one.
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:58 AM
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just don't think of adding lithium to a mini-z. it's pointless.
just use ni-mh because mini-z's aren't world class because of the car's power, but because of the owner's carefull fine-tuning and precise driving.
just drive **** near perfect and you'd always beat a noob who has liths.

i say mr02 because rwd is faster than AWD because there's less friction, less inertial mass, and fewer moving parts (which equals less slop).
there's also the bonus on being able to use different types of dampers like the traditional coilover or a disk damper or a triple shock damping system. there's way more upgrades available for the mr02/mr015 because it is the most competitive mini-z in racing.
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Old 11-25-2008, 02:08 AM
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Well, I don't want Liths for power actually, just for long-lasting life. For that matter, is there a simple way to bum down their output voltage to reduce the power?
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