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#1
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![]() Howdy; I am also the pround owner of a Kyosho MiniZ MA010. I purchased this MiniZ AWD off of Flashsp2 on GSR (it was also listed on MZR). It came with quite a few goodies, one of those goodies being the ultimate in external turbos - the Woah Nelly EVO! I payed a very reasonable price for this MiniZ which included a whole schwack of stuff from knuckles of multiple cambers to a custom hand wound 39T armature from Flash himself!
I'll tell ya' this right now, no motor I have ever run (including the 39T from PX) can compare to this motor. It has the best powerband I have ever used for a 130 sized brushed motor. Pictures: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Other RCs: Traxxas Stampede. Handwound Brushless-Motors. Axial AX10. Associated RC18MT.
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The Collection: Mitsubishi Pajero | AE RC18MT TLMicroCrawler | Xmod ShowRoom | 'Yota XTruck "The fun begins when the pavement ends." Last edited by Donziikid; 03-28-2008 at 02:10 PM.. |
#2
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![]() Very nice. Great way to hop in there with a tricked out mini-z. I hear it is difficult to tune the awds to compete against the 2wd on track...so if anyone could have set it up for you it would be Mr. Flashsp2.
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#3
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![]() Thats awesome...
If I had more space, or just even a huge room. I would so do something like that with mine. But I have alot of junk in my garage barely enough room for the track I have. And I cant find a place good enough that won't tear the hell out of mine. That is very cool. No broken wheels or anything like that? But I do say, at least get a display body or two. But if you chose one definetly get a Skyline or the Nismo Fairlady Z. |
#4
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![]() Quote:
Nope. Haven't broken a thing thus far. Hopefully won't, either. ![]() Actually, those are my two top choices for a body. They both look really, really good. But, I would probably end up getting a white body and painting it. I'm perfectly fine with this basher body, I know I can drive a little harder with it on and not worry about beating up a great looking body.
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#5
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![]() Have you picked up any drift tires yet? I hear those babies are a drift dream, with all that extra power you should be able to spell your name in cursive with the car.
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#6
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![]() I plan to do that someday. Even with the GPM tires on it now, it finds its way to slide around on my wood floor.
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#8
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![]() Flash and I agreed on a measly $175 for the chassis, body, AE XP2 transmitter and a few spare parts.
Here's the parts list: Quote:
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#10
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![]() That's a nice mini-z.
but i have1 question. Why an Xmods Crystal? And i have a mini-z very soon but don't know which model i want. and which chassis i should go for. could you help me get the right chassis for a beginner in mini-z?
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#11
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![]() Quote:
![]() For a beginner, you're going to want to go with something that is easier to handle and easy to maintain. I find the MiniZ MA010 (AWD) is the easiest to handle and maintain. I've run an MR02 at my local hobby shop and they're quite a bit more difficult to handle.
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#12
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![]() That is a really good price indeed...
I have a track, but its such a pain to bring it out and set it up but I dont mind the rewards when I get to drive on it. But I really dont have enough room in my house to set it up so I have to do it in my garage. Then the track gets dusty and crap and I hate cleaning RCP. But its getting to the point where I wont drive on concrete at all, I used to all the time\, now not so much. Have you tinkered with it all... I mean like tear it down and put it all back toghether. I mean it looks like from the pics you posted, really dirty. Im such a clean freak when it comes to these things...Seriously I tear down everytime clean it and lube it. EVERYTIME. Flash looks like he does a really good job at sodering! |
#13
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![]() Quote:
I sadly (and stupidly) let a two wide-L RCP track slip through my fingers when it was only going for $50.. The shipping alone for something that large would have had to cost $35-45. ![]() I will never subject my MiniZ to concrete. They ride way too low and I love the looks of it's bottom; too precious to scratch up. ![]() This thing needs a good cleaning, I'll give ya that. It's been probably a month since I've torn it apart, cleaned and lubed everything up. But, in that month, it's probably only been ran a handful of times.
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#15
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![]() If I ever get a chance to compete in HFAY it will be with a stock car, not a modified car. I'd get blown away a lot worse in modified.
![]() So, this is just my drool car and "basher" car. Won't be track designated nor will it be the quickest on the track - unless I really wanted to go that far and dial in two cars. Flash is a great motor winder. This motor is a beast, way better than my motor from PX or a few I've wound myself. By the way, Ann Arbor is winning in points for HFAY. Ha! We rule. ![]()
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#17
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![]() I have driven both a MR02 MM and a MR02 RM at my local hobby shop. For my driving style, I prefer to use the RM instead of the MM. Although the MM was easier to handle in the corners, I felt the RM was better suited for my driving style coming in and out of corners. I like to drive hard into the corner and slow down right when I have to and then accelerate as fast as I can, the RM allows me to do this because the weight is placed behind the axle instead of slightly infront of it like on an MM. Plus, if I wanted handleing, that's what the MA010 with AWD is for.
![]() I could always just buy an RM from Kyosho and then buy the MM motor pod later if I wanted to change my style or wanted to try perfecting my MM driving.
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#20
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![]() The body will make a difference when it comes to racing, yes. Some bodies provide more downforce, some provide more body roll, some provide better visability; there are a lot of factors. I couldn't tell you which is the best body for racing, however. It all changes with people's different driving styles and habits.
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