Did I fry my range? I need a 2nd Opinion.

[Kaze]

I was trying to drive my 350Z a while back and remember that though it was running nicely I couldn't be more than 1 ft away from it before it fell outta range. So I took out the EP to look at the reciever, but I can't tell if I fried it cause the board is a bit burnt but the resistor is good. I remember having this problem before and being able to see the resistor burnt, does this mean the board itself is burnt and i should replace the servo board and not the resistor? anyways, heres a couple angles of it. Please enlighten me someone.. >.<


you can see the Resistor nice and clean but a small burn mark on the board under it.


Sorry for bluriness but this is the cleanest i could take this shot. You can see the burn on the board once again though.

[bondo]

i cant really tell ya because ive never had this problem but i can tell you that replacing it is worth a shot.
you can replace them for under $20.00 (if you dont already have an iron and solder)and have tools/supplies leftover for other modifications.

replacing the resistors is incredibly easy due to location.
put the board in your helping hands or vise and grab a resistor with some nippers or needlenosed,apply the iron to the opposite side and it will pull right out.same for the second one.
(the resistors are pretty chep(under 2 bux) so grab a few incase it happens again. these resistors can be found at rat shack but i wouldnt know the series. maybe donzii or someone can find that info.)
use a de-solderbraid to clean the traces
bend the leads of the resistors at 90 degrees,place the leads through the board(direction doesnt matter), get a dab of solder on your iron and touch the lead as close to the board as possible.
this will cause the solder to "wick" to the other side forming a nice clean joint.
do this for all four leads,nip the ends and your set.

the whole thing(including reciever removal) should only take about 15 minutes.

cheers,
Bondo

[123Vette]

ya it looks burnt, its not hard to replace if you have the right tools (btw i have a spare reciver board if you want it pm me)

[Kaze]

Well I actually just went from one problem to another. I decided to double check that the problem was the range (going off what happened the last time i drove it.) Well the range is actually working, theres no problems with it however, its the diff I think now. The motor as I fed it juice binded and skipped a little (liek the car would when outta range, cept the reciever was working since i could steer. the only reason i think its the diff is cause its the only modded part in there (I took the liberty to power switch by-pass it while I was checking the EP). The Diff is supposed to be an adjustable diff using washers as a mod to the ball bearing AWD Diff. Idk what I can do maybe I put it together wrong or its too tight... Any ideas what else might be acusing this drivetrain binding?

[123Vette]

you coulda fried the motor(well broke the motor idk what to call it) my lith cars motor sounds screechy some times too lazy to swap it out tho so binding and screeching for me.....

[Kaze]

if anything it could be the FETs, deffinately not the motor as i just switched a few (gen 1 you have to for gearing). the binds but if you roll the wheels a bit, it goes, but if you put it on the ground you can push it a little and it'll go, then slow down to a stop.

It's a Gen 1, AWD, Carbon fibre driveshaft, power switch bypass, modded ball bearing diff (with 3 washers), everything else is stock.

[2wdpancar]

Hey Kaze, you might've.
Atomic mods sells a range repair kit for 5 bucks, don't buy off ebay!!
Plus, AM has a tut for it, even though Bondo just explained how to do it.
I have a spare receiver, if you want it, you can have it for free.

If it's the fets..i doubt it.
You said you drive it like 1foot, I bet it's those resistors.

[Kaze]

I've done the mod before myself, here lemme elaborate a bit more. I had the bare EP out on my desk, put batteries in it, told my friend to walk away from me holding down the trigger on the remote. I told him to stop when the signal died (the motor was running fine) he got about 23' from my desk into the hallway before the signal started to fade. So the Range is deffinatley good.... that can only mean its the diff or something in the tranny locking up. Any Ideas?

[Kaze]

lol blt... I kinda said that already, how would I test/check binding? I'm so puzzled >.< Gen1's are weird sometimes,

[Kaze]

I've taken it apart completely like 3 times, maybe the CF driveshafts too long? idk we'll see