New Nitro rustler

[biggie862005]

Just bought myself a new nitro rustler today! cant wait to run it, but its too cold to break it in. this thing looks soo sick...



Size compared to my lifted titan:

[snowboi1289]

Looks nice! Dont see why nobody has replied, till now.

Go here to learn ALOT about nitro engines, and much more.

HEy actually you can break it in in the winter if you want, and take the propper precautions. Ive broke in a lot of my RC cars in winter time.

take a piece of aluminum foil, and a hair dryer. Heat up the Cooling head maily. but heat up the entire block untill its pretty darn hot. then tightly wrap the aluminum foil over the head to keep the heat in, and then break it in like normal. Run your first tank. do your cool off period. then take it back inside and reheat the head, and recover with foil and do the next tank. Trick works perfect.

ive done i think 5 motors this way. including my current one which has still be running strong a year later. good luck! and nice choice on a new truck!

[biggie862005]

thanks i might try that, but tomorrow is going to be 50, so it should be warm enough....thanks for the tip!

and thanks for the link snowboi!

yeah 50 is pretty warm you'll be fine. id still hit it with a hair dryer first just to warm it up some. but i wouldnt really worry about the foil at that temp. you'll be golden.

[biggie862005]

so i dont need to wrap the cooling fins at that temperature?

[badass_savage]

make sure when u shut the engine off u leave the piston at BDC or bottom dead center, meaning the bottomof it's stroke, it preseves the pinch of the engine and in turn prolongs engine life. Do it after every run break in and even when u run it normally.


Also purchase a temp gun. You only need to wrap the head if you can't get the engine temps upto 220-250 degrees. The further from those temps the more fins you should cover on the head. Don't touch the needles on the carb until you've gone through a good 8 tanks, then start leaning the needles out for performance.

[biggie862005]

how do you know when the piston is at BDC? how do i make it stop there??

[clintr79]

Originally Posted by biggie862005

how do you know when the piston is at BDC? how do i make it stop there??

Turn the flywheel untill it is there by hand looking through where the glow plug goes

[biggie862005]

what exactly is the benefit of doing that? wouldnt manually turning the crank with no lubrication be bad for it?

And xmodracer1, you broke yours in in the winter? did you wrap the cooling head with a sock? tomorrow is supposed to be close to 50, i might try breaking it in tomorrow....

[Stampedekid]

Originally Posted by biggie862005

what exactly is the benefit of doing that? wouldnt manually turning the crank with no lubrication be bad for it?

And xmodracer1, you broke yours in in the winter? did you wrap the cooling head with a sock? tomorrow is supposed to be close to 50, i might try breaking it in tomorrow....

Nope, did nothing but break in for about 6-7 tanks then ran it.

[badass_savage]

Originally Posted by biggie862005

how do you know when the piston is at BDC? how do i make it stop there??

take the exhaust off and look through the port and look to see when its at the bottom of its stroke, when it is mark the flywheel with a marker so you dont have to keep taking the exhaust off. if it doesnt stop there when your shut it off just turn the flywheel until its there, its fine if you turn it by hand there acctually is still oil in the engine from the fuel after you run it, thats why you need to use afterrun oil, so it doesnt rust.
the benifit is it maintains the pinch in the engine, thats what makes compression, if you leave the piston at the top it stretches the sleeve causing it to loose it pinch much faster.
he says under 40 because that usually when you start seeing problems. also its when the plastic starts to become more brittle, and its much easier to break stuff.
your best investment will be a temp gun, just keep an eye on your temps, break in is the most important time to keep track of your temps.

[biggie862005]

yeah im going to buy a temp gun tomorrow. I just ordered a venom failsafe too....not going to be here till after newyears..

also i read the wd-40 is ok to use instead of afterrun oil, is this true or should i just stick with after run oil....i have both

[Stampedekid]

Nice buy! I got my Nitro Stampede exactly a year from yesterday and I broke it in in the winter. Waiting for it to get warmer until I drive it again. For now a Slash is what I bash

[badass_savage]

if u got after run use that wd works aswel but if u got it use it.

[biggie862005]

well i was going to break it in today but now its raining....

you dont need to pull the exhaust off to check the piston. Spin the flywheel untill it has no pressure. when it freely rocks back and forth take a guess and what the middle point is. that will put it close enough to the bottom. its not going to matter at all if its exactly at the very lowest point. they just dont want it stuffed at the top of the piston where the compression happens. you will feel the compression when its at the top when your rolling the flywheel, sicne it will be hard to roll. then you'll hear like a air bubble pop and it will go loose again back to the bottom. that simple...

its still lubricated from running it with fuel, so you dont need to worry about that. its not going to hurt it. but be carefull not to burn your self lol. 200 degrees and tight spaces isnt a fingers best friend.

2nd when it comes to breaking it in in the cold. there is nothing wrong with it. it doesnt hurt your motor at all. the problem with that is. when you break it in in the winter time, it will over heat in the summer time, so then that will hurt your motor. Thats why you want to warm it up, so the motor thinks its sitting in 80 degree weather when you first fire it up.

So in 45-50 degree weather. just hit the entire motor with a blow dryer for a few minutes. and get it pretty warm. and then head outsite and fire it up you'll be fine. anything less than 45 id wrap the cooling head with aluminum foil to help keep the heat in. and you need to wrap the entire head, not just part of it like badass savage was leading you to believe. the point is to keep the heat in. down by the block where the piston actually is.


if you dont have a heat gun... super simple solution. Spit on it. Spit on your cooling head, if it instantly sizzles away its to hot. If it takes 3-4 seconds to sizzle away its in good temperature.

[badass_savage]

the colder the more you wrap it.... If it's 44 degrees u don't need to wrap the whole head... Just partial u start from the top. Temp gun is a must, yes the spit thing works but it's not the best solution a temp gun is around 25 bucks for one that will do the job.
Ubwant it in the 220-250 range temp is most important when breaking it in.
Another thing that works is wraping a sock around the head.

wouldnt a stock burn? lol then agian maybe not 220 degrees i guess isnt that hot...

but ive never owned a heat gun a day in my life. ive been running nitros for 8+ years... they are not a must. just handy.

[badass_savage]

nope the sock won't burn it's actully better the tin foil, but it's should only be used if it's really cold otherwise use the foil.
As for the temp gun it's a really handy tool and for 25 bucks it's cheap insurance. It helps a lot with tuning and adding life to the engine. Your not going to want to have to countinueously have to spit on the head and watch it. With a nitro temp is one of the most important things.