#3
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always use more than you need because you can sand off wat you dont.
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#5
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What they said. Plus make sure that you use the right amount of hardener. Too little leaves the Bondo soft, while too much can make it harden too fast for you to work with, and could make the Bondo brittle. As long as you're in the ballpark with what the can tells you to do, you'll be fine and won't have problems.
Also, use care when sanding. Anything rougher than 400-grit paper will leave sanding marks/lines/gouges in your finish that will show through your paint. You can use a rougher grit to knock the Bondo down to where you want it faster, but you should switch to 400 grit or so when it's close to where you want it to end up, shape-wise and height-wise. Just be careful, because it does sand fast. Actual "Bondo" bulk fill should be covered by a spot filler/glazing putty to smooth the finish over. Sand that with 220 grit to knock it down to the desired level/shape, and then sand smooth with 400 grit or finer. With my stuff, I also seal the spot fill with model cement to strengthen it in the event of an impact. Spot fill will crack or fracture if you crash the car into something, especially if it's not coated with something rigid to protect it. I use a model paint brush (a junk one that I don't mind not being able to re-use), and brush on a thin layer of the model cement. It puts a thin "plastic" layer over the spot filler, which seals it from moisture and protects the spot filler from cracking under light impacts. Once the cement dries, I sand it smooth with 400-grit sandpaper. Topcoats finish over it just fine. To see an example of my work, check out my Eleanor project thread: http://www.xmodsource.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15672 . I used this technique on the nose, side pipes, side scoops, and the rise in the hood. Last edited by Camaro98; 03-24-2009 at 09:43 AM.. |
#6
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Quote:
You want to build up the basic shape of the structures with sheet Styrene (your LHS will have it, look in the train/modelling section), then put small amounts of Bondo on at a time. Use Squadron Putty, either the white or green. Apply with like a small piece of plastic and smooth it over. Small amount. Bondo shrinks and cracks if large amounts are used. Go thing and it dries faster. Let it dry COMPLETELY before you start sanding it or touching it. Give it a good 24 hours. It's better to sand and add more later than to add too much and have it crack on you.. You can ask the top Body Guys in xmodding (My vote goes to Shapecharge, AznBalla, and CXP) and that's how they do it. Go slow, use small amounts.
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#7
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Sweed has a good point. If you're building something up and not just filling something in, the squadron putty & styrene approach is superior.
Squadron putty is good stuff, all right---I used a lot of it (and styrene pieces) on my Eleanor project. (No Bondo in this car, just spot filler). It seems to adhere better to plastic/styrene surfaces, too. Only thing is you need to watch the fumes and keep physical contact with the stuff down to a minimum. Those fumes are strong. If Bondo is the way you want to go, avoid piling it on too thick, like Sweed said. You can go a little higher than your desired level, and then sand it down, but don't over-do it. Applying it in thin layers and letting it dry would be better than putting the whole mass on at one time, too. In my experience doing bodywork on full-size cars, actual Bondo body fill (not the red stuff in the tube) can be applied in thicknesses up to 1/4" without cracking (sometimes thicker), but it will shrink a little as it dries. The red spot filler putty will definitely do exactly as Sweed said. If you put it on too thick, it will definitely shrink and crack. |
#10
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its gets heavy you need power to push it trust me. its dead weight for one of these cars.
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