Sorry for the old thread bump but I thought I should post the description of my video here too so people can use it as a quick reference to drifting setups. Despite telling people to read the description, there are still some people asking me what is the best setup -_- So heres the description from my videos filled with stuff to help you start drifting.
This is my quick drifting tutorial for xmods. Here's a setup list that you need to start drifting right out of the box:
-All wheel drive
-Drift tires (Radioshack or Aftermarket ones)
-Stage 1 motor w/stock gearing or 8-25 gearing**
**Depending on the surface, you want to use either a Stage 1 or a Stage 2. If you are drifting on carpet, use the Stage 2 to get more power. Also for drifting on concrete or just outside, use the Stage 2 and Aftermarket drifting tires. The RadioShack tires will wear out very quickly and you'll end up burning them down to the bare rim. I ended up doing that...
Optional parts for Gen 1:
This is pretty much the same as the Evo chassis. The only thing you can change is the battery height. You can cut off the mounts on the chassis and the battery holders. Then you can mount the batteries lower with glue. Remember to test it with the springs in so you can get the most compression out of your springs. Don't mount it so low that the springs can't compress.
Optional parts for Evo:
Suspension
-Lowering arms for both front and rear. It stiffens the suspension and lowers the car. If you are using the Radioshack tires, this may be too low and the car will scrape/drag, so if it does, just use the stock setting.
Spring settings: I've used a ton of combos, but these are some that you can use as a drift setup
-Blue springs in front, Red in the rear. This the setup that will allow you to get in a drift the fastest. Its hard to maintain angle with it for long periods of time though. It does get the most angle out of a drift, and its very sensitive to turning.
-All stock springs. This setup is the one you get right away. It slows down the turning because its soft. So if you don't like the jerky turning of an xmod, then this setup is for you. Its great if you are drifting in a pretty open area. The drifts will be longer with this setup.
-Yellow springs in front, Red in the rear. This is my favorite setup. Yellow springs are a bit stiffer in the front then the stock ones so it reacts to turning just a bit faster then stock. I can hold drifts for a long time with this setup, so I recommend it.
-All Red springs. Now if you are still having trouble with jerky or sensitive steering then use this setup. Its very slow, and your turning will be slowed down dramatically. If you drift outside, use this setup because its made for long drifts.
Differentials: Locked or unlocked is the question, and there are two answers depending on which chassis you are using.
1. If you have a Gen 1 car, then lock your diffs. The diffs on these cars are very loose. You'll end up spinning out a ton if you drift with open diffs. Another setup is having the rear differential locked. This is called the "Countersteer" setup along with some other settings. This will require a lot of countersteering and is hard to control with stock xmod electronics.
2. If you have an Evolution car, then DO NOT lock your diffs! Why? Because these cars are heavy, and need all the help they can get to turn. It may not be noticeable in open areas, but in tight areas like where I drift its noticeable that the car doesn't want to turn when the diffs are locked. So keep them unlocked. My car in the video is the perfect example, it has open diffs throughout this whole tutorial.
Electronics: Now, this is where drifting differs. My car doesn't have normal electronics. I don't own them anymore because they aren't very precise. Stock xmod electronics only have 3 levels of throttle and steering. For steering is slightly turned, half turned, then full lock. Throttle is slight throttle, half throttle, and full throttle. With a Hobby Grade PCB like my car, then you have every level in between. My car has about 7-10 levels of turning and steering. Its helpful to be very precise and not only does it help with drifting, but it also helps in overall handling and at the track.
Part 2. Go to part one if you need a setup for drifting. I just used this tutorial to practice drifting with 1.5mm offset wheels in the rear of my car
Electronics continued
Heres a list of compatible electronics to use in an xmod:
-Micro-T ESC and Servo. This is a great board to start out with to go Hobby Grade. This was my first conversion into my Gen 1. It has great throttle and steering response. It'll run from $30 to $45. I use the stock Micro-T remote which is about $20 to $40. If you're lucky like me you can find one for $8...
-iWaver PCB-This is a copy of a Mini-z board. I have one in my Skyline Drift car that you can see in my other videos. Its a huge improvement over stock electronics. It glitches from time to time too. Its the cheapest out of the bunch here. Its only around $20 but you'll need a 2ch remote/transmitter which is about another $20. $40 isn't bad to make your car handle much better comparable to a Z.
-Mini-Z PCB- The real version of an iWaver board. Its better in ways and doesn't glitch. Its definitely pricey. I haven't seen them go for under $35 dollars. If you know someone who is going 2.4ghz, they usually try to sell their old board at a fairly cheap price.
-RV Project 2wd/4wd PCB- This is the board my car uses throughout this tutorial. Its supposedly better than a Mini-z board because its an upgrade. It has a lot of manufacturer defects though, so buy it from somewhere that has a lot of customer service. I got another one for free when my first board didn't work. it ranges from $25 to $45.
-RPMZ board- I don't know much about it. I saw it in trainboy414's video so subscribe to him and ask him about it