Looking extremely good! The only thing I can really criticize on is your winding style and the wire connecting at the comm tabs.
1st: Go hemi. Its much more preferable. Like XMDrifter said, it technically uses a bit less wire, so depending on your stack height and pattern, you can use this to eliminate the "extra" wire and make your armatures ever closer to being...well...true to the wind count. Its not difficult, and alot of people who pattern wind find it much easier to wind like that.
Basically with the wire crossing, your adding anywhere between half to a full turn to your finaly wind count by crossing the wire and using the factory cross winding technique. Some think this would balance out the effect of different lengths of wire on different levels of the stack, however if this were true, theoretically if you wound a 35t, it could end up being nearly a 36 to 36 1/2 turn motor. We as motor builders typically wouldn't notice this, however, if you do it right, you can dial in your stack height to suit your driving style, and not worry about extra wire length throwing of the accuracy of the wind count. This is one of the reasons I prefer hemi winding, especially in lower turn motors.
Yeah, after you showed me that picture. I understood what you meant by Hemi winding.
2nd: In one arm, you soldered the wires to the tabs with too much solder, and the other one you didn't solder at all.
This can fly two ways: Your a gung-ho high stakes motor junkie who runs his motors till the brushes melt onto the comm and the solder you use to hold your wires in place melts off, or your a typical driver, who takes care of his motors and never pushes his motor over board. Since you will probably never push your motor so hard the solder melts, I think you should solder your tabs. Except don't go overboard. If your motor has tabs decent tabs, run the wire under the tabs and then solder and clamp securely. Don't go overkill with the solder. The lighter the comm is the better. Less rotational mass=more rpm, plus if there is too much on one tab, it'll tilt the balance of the arm ever so slightly.
Plus with a solder/clamp combo, if for insane reasons you do get the solder "soft" while running the **** out of your motor, it'll still be clamped, and the centrifugal force won't seperate the the wire from the comm tab.
Done that already. Thanks.
Good luck finding specialty armatures because Auldey stopped making/selling them looong ago. The only ones you get now adays are out of motors like the Chili/T2/Z2, etc....
Lol. I may have found a a source. 