SR-Werkz CS 370z project
 

so after my experiment with CS drifting on my rsx, i decided it was time to try it at a longer weelbase, and my 370z looked like a good candidate. this time around, i won't only by changing gear ratios, but also will cut some camber adjustments into my top arms so that i can fine tune it.

diff is shimmed for contact with the 8t motor pinion i used in place of the cone gear.
here is the modded gear: it's superglued to a plastic awd small bushing(also same size as a gen1 bushing) and melted out on the backside to a depth of about 2.3mm-2.5mm
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/CIMG1648.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/CIMG1649.jpg

the differential has a bushing on one side, and a bearing on the other with shims to adjust the gear mesh. the bearing side has 2 of the 3 shims installed on it. this keeps the gear tooth contact close enough to reduce tooth skipping. another side note is that i swapped the medium driveshaft for a short driveshaft from the awd kit. this is necessary to ensure front/back spacing
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/CIMG1647.jpg

driving video as well:

YouTube Video

wow!! That's really sick!! XD Hope I have time to try it soon... Really creative, but i hopefully it doesn't wear on the front diff and gears too much cause it does sound like its grinding a lot.

Hows the binding too? Pretty loose or is it a tight fit with the new gear?

thats awesome, is it hard to get used to it that way, and is it grinding or is the noise from the plastic tires

the noise if from both. the gears are loud i know. i fit it at first with 3 shims, but that was too tight. so now i have just 2 shims and it fits just fine. it can still skip gears occasionally, but it's a lot better than my experimental rsx CS mod.

Oh i see.

I got an idea, if you're good at cutting with a knife or with side cutters you can trim up the gear to make it diagonal so it would mesh better with the diff. You might have to shim it up to make it reach the diff properly but I think that would help reduce noise and increase gear contact if it actually fit between the gaps. It'll be tough though, the gear is tinnnnyyy!!!

Hehe once you make a successful setup I'm just gona use it hahaha can't wait XD

Is the point of it just to change the diff ratios of the car, in order to have different wheel speeds between the front and the rear wheels?

Yes. This causes "overdrive" where the rear wheels power more then the front, making a more realistic looking drift. Much harder to control though but on larger scale cars it looks absolutely amazing!!!

i'll try a step up to 175% OD with a modded gear. should be interesting as well as next to impossible to drive. 28t diff ring gear OTW

here's how to calculate OD for those of you who don't know yet:

# of teeth on Front diff /(divided by) # of teeth on front driveshaft gear = F
# of teeth on rear diff /(divided by) # of teeth on rear driveshaft gear = R
OD ratio = F/(divided by) R

stock diff is 24t
stock awd cone gear is 12t

update:
in the mail, there is a little something comin' that could help me keep this under control better...and it's not tires or gears

let you guys guess what it is

also, in the works, is a camber adjustment slide, this will be on the front, and on the rear, i will be fabricating either flanged camber adjustment cams or a slide-system to adjust camber as well

for the gear ratio, i've stepped it up:
retrofitting a 28t gear on the front diff along with re-fitting the mesh, i've bumped my overdrive ratio to 1.75, or 175%. hopefully, the part coming in the mail will help me handle this overdrive ratio

modified gear:
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/28tdiff4.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/28tdiff2.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/28tdiff1.jpg

this is a k'nex gearbox ring gear that i cut from one of the gears that meshed at 90 degrees, so i know it was meant to mesh perpendicularly. the diff gear used to be ab old rear diff gear that had been cut and filed to be used as a front diff, and now cut and filed to fit the ring gear. i've put on 1 more spacer on the bearing side, and now it meshes pretty well. a 4th shim might fit and make the mesh more constant, but i need to see about binding first

i tested my 175% overdrive this morning, and found it to be too much to control, so i ended up switching back to 150%. i also kept the tighter spacing and superglued a short nub onto the front center pinion (like the nub on gen1 cones) to keep it seated in on the "D" shaft. the mesh has improved significantly and is much more consistent than in its early stages: i can actually turn the front wheels and the gear mesh is strong enough to turn the rear wheels with it.

Dang, dude, I come back after so long and you're up to some good stuff! Keep it up. ;)

thanks color0.
i remember you from so long ago, back when i was on RCU as 2wdrifter... lol long time eh?

Update:
the camber mod for right front is done!

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/CIMG1660.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/CIMG1658.jpg


this is just hand-cut styrene atm, but i will upgrade to dremel-cut aluminum as soon as i get both sides figured out and smooth all the kinks in the system.

update: camber finished on both sides:

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/CIMG1670.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/CIMG1668.jpg

here is the package i've ben waiting for:
2 ball diffs, a new set of drift tires, and 2 RV project boards (1 is for my gen1)
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/CIMG1671.jpg

will be installing as soon as i get myself off my lazy bum and go get my soldering tools form my storage and plug em in

i swapped back to stock diffs. smoother.
i'll keep the atomics around and see if i can't find some atomic center gears and work on that as my next project. not gonna be a surprise: hellaflush/fatlace evo 8 and continuation of the supra aero (as soon as skysthelimit sends me those freaking headlight lenses :/)

anyways, update on RV project board:
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/CIMG1673.jpg
green goes to black
yellow goes to orange
orange goes to white

that's the servo colors.
the servo motor is white wire on back fet
black wire on front fet

i've installed, and still waiting for a fresh charge of cells to test this baby out.
though i think i need to get this thing to go full lock cuz it doesn't seem to want to go full lock...tight-turns-mod-on-evo time?

nice project you have going...keep us posted

i have been.

What did you actually do to adjust your front camber? Have you figured a way for the rear? My Evo is pretty low and it's rubbing without any camber right now. I have spacers on all 4 corners and the stance is pretty wide. Needs some camber-ing to fit it. Lol Hellaflush here I come!

BTW Does anyone know the best materials and how to make a roof rack? Possibly Yakima or Thule style with the visor. :)

rear, i havent figured out yet.
front camber is slide-plates locked with a nut, longer truck-screws with clipped threads to screw into the knuckles.
you could try the exact same thing on the rear, but i suspect that a rear mounted camber adjustment is more viable, i.e. the rear clip "protector" retrofitted with sliders and slide arms to adjust the camber. i need more styrene to test this out. back to my trusty exacto knife :)