My new Micro-DT suggestions...
I am new to the world of Losi Micro and just bought my Micro-DT. Here is a list of upgrades I want to do and some questions on them as well, which I would be most grateful if you guys could answer or suggest, etc and let me know if I am going along the right path with upgrading this. Do note that I will not be using it all the time since my main monster is a highly upgraded Savage Flux HP
Upgrades for Micro-DT ----------------------- 1. Bearings (already installed) 2. Threaded Axles (already installed) 3. Aluminum Shocks (already installed) 4. Losi 8750kV BL Motor (I want something that is "driveable" for indoors and occasional outdoor speed runs) 5. Losi 3 wire Servo 6. Castle Creations Sidewinder Micro ESC (unless you have a cheaper suggestion) 7. Stronger steering rods (found some on Ebay...) 8. 3Racing Gearbox Thats it so far, any other suggestions you guys have - let me know. BTW, are the aluminum A-Arms really needed? Thanks! |
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2: good 3: good 4: should be fine for normal indoor speeds IF you dont switch to lipo 5: good 6: use the losi esc provided with the BL combo http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSB9594 7: i say switch to turnbuckles (thetoyz is out of stock) 8: perfect alloy a arms are not needed, but i say get a RPM front bumper, its worth it :D |
agreed with everything mycrors said. what are you using for tx/rx?
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I basically have the same set up (aside from the shocks, I kept mine stock). I'd say instead of buying the brushless system, go for a BB2 motor and Lipo. It gives good speed indoors and outdoors, is relatively low maintenance, and a whole lot cheaper. For the steering rods, use a guitar pick (I used one of my sister's old ones) since its cheap and lasts for a long time (the ones I made haven't broken yet, and its been about a year). And as for the metal gearbox, I never bought one and I personally don't know the benefits, so I'd personally skip that one since the stock gearbox is fine.
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You guys are just GREAT! You know whats really sad? I joined SPECIFIC websites that cater for the mini-t, etc. (I will not mention names) and for almost 2 days got ZERO response. I try this site and instantly I get a response :) *****************THANKS GUYS******************
Btw, more to follow - currently workin on my Flux HP changin the diffs to Bulletproof - lots of fun... |
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guitar picks? O.o.. i just cut pieces from the xmod body kit box.. lol the 3r tranny it a big upgrade a) it uses bearings for the spur instead of bushings b) the stock tranny is known to eat your gears over time c) its worth saving the gears after time... |
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Thanks guys - yeah I decided to not go all out with it since I will not be using it all the time so I decided to just get the BL Motor Combo, Lipo and turnbuckles. Will post up some pics once its all together... |
Ok I am back again lol, I have a question about going brushless - since I will be using the Xcelorin 10250Kv Brushless Combo or either the 8750Kv Combo, how much runtime should I get compared to my stock brushed motor, running on a 300mAh 7.4V Lipo (stock lipo for this is 180mAh btw)?
You guys think I should get the 10250Kv motor (fastest but harder to control) since I will be using the DX2S controller which allows complete throttle programming, etc. etc. so I can slow it down indoors, etc? BTW, the 8750Kv and 10250Kv kit are both priced the same....wierd. |
If they are the same price then definitely go for the 10250kV motor/ESC combo over the 8750kV motor/ESC combo. You can watch your trigger finger while running indoors with the 10250kV to keep the speeds down, but still be able to unleash pure fury outdoors. :nod:
I cannot help with the battery question.. never had either battery or either setup, but I am sure someone here has and can chime in! :) Cheers, Kyle |
Ok thanks - I went with the 10250kV combo :firedevi: lol - for the price its a good deal at $50 for the brushless motor, esc and programming card, I think :)
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Im running a 2s lipo and 10250kV and i get around twenty minutes run time just messing around. Driving around the room I actually have not killed the battery yet as I usually just jump a ramp over and over and it gets boring.
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look at this one for ex: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUTA4&P=7 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUTA5&P=7 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUTA6&P=7 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUTA7&P=7 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXWJ0&P=ML 4 different motor combo's, same esc, someone racing in mod class would not want a 7700kv motor, but would rather get the 4600 or 5700 depending on what class they will be racing in... its mostly a choice preference here is the $50 for the 10000kv+esc combo :D http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Combo-10250kV and the 8000vk http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Combo-8750kV |
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Here it is Action : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=290443577994 Quote:
Yeah thats what I was thinking.... :) |
Hey guys I just thought about this - since I will be running a powerful motor - would I need to replace the gears in the tranny or perhaps the slipper clutch and main drive gear, etc? Just thinking....
....Or maybe I should just wait until it breaks lol |
Just thought about this - do I have to re-grease the gears or anything if changing the housing to aluminum?
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They come already greased and if i remember correctly the gearbox came with some sort of grease you can use if you want. but to answer your question, no you do not need to grease your gears
EDIT: thats if you get the assembly. If you get just the case then id suggest doing so but no its not needed |
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