Resuming my f350 project
 

I had to pack up my xmod stuff to use the table space for other projects, but now I have time to start working on my f350 again.

I fried the electronics so I have to transfer some stuff over to my h2 chassis. (I ordered a truck chassis w/ electronics to replace the fried one, but didn't wan't to wait)

Last night I was working on mounting the motor and the dually wheels. Here are some pics of the chassis so far:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y25...4/S4020285.jpg
I will need to get some wheel shims to keep the rear wheels as straight and wobble free as possible to keep them from rubbing.

Here is a link to the motor I am using:
http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/in...roducts_id=596

I tested it and it works with the stock fet's. I didn't get alot of run time in since it was late, but I figured if it was going to blow, it would have blown right away.

Not sure of the exact specs, but it is fast and seems to have way more torque then my s2 with neo mags.

any pics of the body?

hey if you can get ahold of the drop kit for the evo cars it comes with dogbone caps that will get rid of the rubbing on the set of dualys

interesting

I forgot where I stowed the model kit when I put everything away. Heres a older pic of the body resting on the old chassis:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y25...4/S4020270.jpg

I've painted the cab since that pic was taken (same color blue).

Here's what the old chassis looked like without the body:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y25...4/S4020265.jpg

As you can see I extended it a little bit.:p

darkendblade: I am using the wide joint cups from the car drop kit, and mounted them with both bearings on the inside of the ridge (normal setup has one bearing inside, one outside of the ridge on the joint cup) on the joint cup so that it can extend out further. It works but there is a lot of wheel wobble and the dogbone falls out.

Even with that, it require 3 washers to push the wheel out to clear the motor. (this motor is a little longer than a regular 180)

wow that looks awsome and so i take it that the joint cup really didnt work ill think of something else to help if i can and get back at you

Wow! Great progress!

dear lord! do u think its long enough? that must be a 1/20 scale truck

Haha, according to the box the model kit the truck is 1/24 scale and almost 10" long. I think the stock Titan I originally used as a chassis donor was around 7" or something.

I was working some more on it this afternoon and had an idea of how to make the motor fit by cutting up the orange motor cradle piece and sliding the motor in the other direction. If it works, I am SMRT.

thats nice.

Every normal xmod is between 5'-7' with the spacers.

Jon

it looks good

is it awd, that you made custom, or only 2wd?

Right now it's only 2wd, I will eventually make it 4wd. The driveshaft tunnel is still there, all it needs is a longer driveshaft.

yeah, i was just about to ask if you were going to get a longer shaft. u need a long one for all the spacers you have there. i have my own custom flatbed trailer i made.

hey man since i love that dually so much i made my own duallies! i did them with the slammed wheels tho, and put it on my chevord and its kick@$$

thats rocks so much!!!!!!!

Driveshaft?
 

I know how to make a driveshaft. Go to a hobby shop that sells real r/c cars and buy the straightest antenna tube they have. Cut it to length annd then use an X-acto to cut a flat spot(creating the D-shaft) and then for added strenght CA glue the shaft to the gear. I used this method to make light weight driveshafts for my old skyline.

A small update.

Last night I hacked up the orange motor cradle piece and remounted the white gear so I was able to slide the motor over a little bit toward the other side, its not much but it helps quite a bit.

Should have pics later tonight. I had to spray for flies in my basement today (where I do xmod work) and I got to let it air out down there.

post pics.