My new ESC
ok so basicly i cannot be bothered with getting a mini -z board and putting it in my xmod (even though it would be cheaper). instead im going to use this EP ( SPEKTRUM DSM 3CH SR3500 MICRO RECEIVER ) so i can go brushless as well and them i can get external turbos installed without all the hastel. This will be my first non xmod board transfer and its gonna cost me £60-£70 or $100+ but i will put this as a project as soon as i get round to being able to purchase it. im pretty sure there is a 130 or 180 brushless motor about.
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well i thought about the evo chassis but it would be easier to put a round motor in a gen1 (as i have a gen1 chassis with no esc or motor). shoudnt be too difficult to modifiy. battery pack will held with storng velcro pads in the shell think it 9.4v (lipo-2200mah). external turbo will fit nicely under the shell.
no need for fan because of no side battery packs it will be getting plenty of air. |
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what esc do you have. to go brushless you need an ESC, reciever, micro servo, BEC and a brushless motor. (the losi 1/36 combo is good for this mod) |
i have already said lol
SPEKTRUM DSM 3CH SR3500 MICRO RECEIVER |
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yeh i know :/ theres another with crystal but its basicly 3 plugs, servo, motor, battery.
but i could just use the spare esc from my nitro. iv also seen a venom 7.2 2000mah stick batery, same size as 1 AA battery, i can use that because thats also what i have in my nitro. |
brushless will completely SHATTER AND ANNIHILATE you gears. be them derlin or not. only aluminum and stuff can take the amount of power brushless puts out.
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Okay, just do alot of research before you get started. Checkout my thread. XXX Project "make your guesses" that has alot of info on this subject there. There is also pictures of all the neccesary electronics. |
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An electronic speed controller (ESC) is what powers the motor (forward and reverse function) of your RC. However, a receiver is what transmits the signal from your RC (RX receiver) to your transmitter (TX transmitter) which tells the RC what to do. This is then relayed over to the servo, telling it to go left or right, or the ESC, telling it go forward or reverse. From what I gather, you believe an ESC is a receiver. Which it is not. |
ok but iv just thought if its a reciver shouldn't it have a crystal? or does it?
i just looked at a close up of the pic and the 3 slots, one is power, one is, servo and one is motor just like on a nitro reviver box (exept motor is throttle servo). so i dont think you would need the mini-z board. |
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i do understand but people kept confusing me by saying that esc and ep are the same, esc is board, ep is board ect... but thanks for telling me. |
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you don't need a mini-z board (which is not an esc it is a PCB just like xmods) If you read the thread, I was going to use the Z board then decided to go brushless. Look at post #18 that is what you need and I even drew a picture of the basic setup. |
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But, when you take a look at something like a 1:18th scale RC, this doesn't hold true. Take a look at the Associated RC18's, they have a receiver (Associated TR203A 2-channel) and an ESC (Associated XPS micro). The receiver receives the data transmitted from your transmitter and tells the rest of the electronics what to do (servo and ESC). Without one or the other, your RC will go no where under your power. |
well it sounds and looks like its gonna be good but dont the 3 lith cells weigh it down abit?
lithium cost more thats why im using vemon lithium poly, i use venom AAA alks in my xxmod at the moment. 1.5v each so i got 6v now. |
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ok thanks for explaining, but i wont need a esc for xmod will i? i can link the motor straight to the box cant i? sorry, i dont know about this setup because i belive its like this on micro and mini t but i do not have one. |
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NO YOU CAN'T. you need an ESC. Look at it like this. In the xmod is the PCB and it has a crystal in it right. When you go brushless you need an ESC and a reciever. Think of the ESC like a PCB and the reciever like you have as the crystal (It's not really like that but I think you can understand that. Also on the Xmod PCB there is a servo contected to it, you need to use a micro servo (HS55) instead and that also will connect to the ESC. ALso the Micro servo can only handle up to 9v so on mine I have 3 liths so thats like 11v, so I need a BEC to regulate the volts to the servo and drop it to 6v. You don't need the BEC unless you use more then 7.2v. It is a totally different setup and you would need to remove everything and get all that new stuff. Remember the reciever is like having the xmod crystal but no board. |
ok......i get it now, are there any 4 pin micro servos? or will a hs55 work on the nitro box too?
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Im sorry whats the Nitro box |
well its the stock one that came with it (has been upgraded to the latest reciver box) its a Ace tr 202a
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Yeah it should, but again it won't do anything without an ESC. heres the Losi one, and heres the 1/36 brushless motor, and heres the combo. http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/L...SC__14039.aspx http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/L...or__14040.aspx http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/L...bo__14042.aspx |
>.< you don't seem to be learning much
and there's no such thing as an external turbo with hobby grade electronics. 3 pin is the most used so it's easier to get the parts. just go with what 3X is saying. honestly, i wouldn't go brushless because it's just too much at this scale. but yeah. Receiver is linked to the ESC and the servo. the esc is linked to the battery, not the RX (as the receivers are called. transmitters are called the TX) as in a nitro car, the engine doesnt use batteries, but the receiver needs power so in nitro, the receiver is connected to the battery pack. anyways. you need: a good receiver, a good micro esc (any esc won't do. you have to get a brushless one if you want to run brushless, and a non-brushless one if you want to run brushed motors), and a micro servo. you also need the TX that goes with your RX. |
even in a 1/18th scale brushless is pretty stupidly fast, like i know even me with 3 years of time with these and other rcs like hpi savages and rc 18s, along side tamya wild daggers, that a bl system will be way too much power for such a small vehicle to handle, like it will have too much power for even and expeirienced rc guru to handle itll want to spin too much if you have 2wd and if you have 4wd itll be better but now your snaping almost every driveline part, next IF you dont snap driveline parts, your gonna need to get it to the ground, stock xmod tires will just blow off, and mini z rims and tires would be a good solution, but ok so now your getting the most of power to the ground and its going fast but now how are you gonna make it turn with out just pushing strait because of the all power? well you could add weight to the front end to try and get it to bite but now your cg is way up and its gonna wanna flip, so you put wider tires on it and it make it so it doesnt wanna flip AS much but still does, and when it does it breaks a bunch of your stock plasic parts like all your arms and possibly your decks and chassis, so you upgrade to aluminum and now its even heavier but stonger for your roll overs and when you hit a wall when it loses all control because the front tires are off the ground because of the fact that its bl, itll be more money to get new aluminum parts, so now you have it handleing like a brick basicly, unless you slow down alot it wont turn without flipping, so in essence what have you got your self with? a 400+ dollor micro rc muscle car, that you cant race because as soon as you get to the corners itll flip so everyone passes you in the corners, so now your last and ****ed off because your car is getting whipped but a a car with only 80 bucks it it and its better because its got a simple better engine in it and some decent tires, and im not trying to be an *** about this but in all honestly you dont need alot of goodies like brushless motors to go fast and be competitive at the local carpet racing! if you decide to keep going on this project just remeber this when it doesnt handle at all i wont say i told you so. again not trying to be an *** just stating the facts and that i dont liek people spending money they dont need to and not being happy with it because then all of us sit here on our computers and think ok wow well atleast we now know not to do that, and its kinda sad to see people spend their money like this and waste it because i know if it turns out the way im PRETTY SURE it will i know i wouldnt be every happy with it, and i dought you will, also im welcome to corections because that way i learn! PLEASE ANYONE FEEL FREE TO CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG ANYWHERE ABOVE!!! well theres mu 2 cents hope it wont offend and that isnt the purpose of it! :)
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circuit racers just need something like a mini-z board, bearings, some decent adjustments and tires...and that's it.
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in my experiance with nitro buggy racing, the standard servo type is a 3 pin servo. i have never seen a 4 pin before. i think when you say nitro box, you mean reciver. that is what everything electronicwise on the car connects to, which would be the steering servo, and the electronic speed controller. that batteris connect to the electronic speed controller, unlike in nitro, how you would need a reciever pack. you dont need to plug a battery pack to th reiciver on electric cars, so you should leave the power slot open. it is not used. the esc should have 3 sets of wires. the three pin plug like the servo wire should be connected to the reciver. then, there should be 2 sets of wires left. one set goes to the motor, the other goes to the battery. you need a special brushless esc to use a brushles motor. hope that helped.
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just to try and help out these are the components you will need
..........motor reciever servo ........ESC http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/DSC00171.jpg the reciever is a 2.4ghz and as you will see they dont use crystals |
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